It’s my wedding next month, and I’ve been awake at night, agonizing what to wear. As a male clothing writer, I would have thought that I would know exactly what I want, but although a conventional suit is something lovely for a wedding, I want something with a little additional zest, what I call “energy of the main character.”
And what, today, implies? In any case, it means opting for something more traditional. HACKETTThe tailor’s head, Graham Simpkins, is one of the many that has observed a change towards clothing codes of the old school for contemporary weddings. “We have seen a strong increase in interest in formal clothing as more clients gravitate towards the morning clothing and the black tie,” he says. “More dinner costumes are going through the [Savile Row] Workshop of what we would normally see for the wedding season, and we even have three white tie games and tailored queues at this time. ”
If the tie and the white tails seem a bit, the morning suit is more feasible. After all, the appearance of your wedding must be in tune with your place: a wedding in the church, for example, almost certainly requires a tomorrow dress.
“For traditional places, we always recommend morning costumes,” he confirms Edward SextonCreative Director, Dominic Sebag-Montefiore. “When it is well cut, a morning suit is incredibly elegant,” he continues. “But it is very difficult to adjust and the proportions must be correct.” (That is why Sexton mainly offers morning costumes made to request or measure). The pants must be almost terribly high, supported by orthopedic devices, with a vest that only covers the waist of their pants. The tail layer must be adjusted, with tails that curve around the hips to fall on the back of the knees. As for the colors: “Our advice for the bride and groom is to adhere to the convention,” says Sebag-Montefiore, “but to try to put some advantage. When you opt for classic gray gray pants and the black morning layer, you can feel very victorious and severe.”
Edward Sexton has launched a new collection capsule of contemporary morning costumes with strong details (prices of £ 3,300). The options include a black tail layer, with thick border tapes to trim the flaps (King Charles uses them in their own black morning coat), combined with a vest and double chest pants with a subtle coal strip. Alternatively, a three-piece of the morning in light gray “feels cooler and more vibrant,” says Sebag-Montefiore, than a classic black morning coat and a combination of gray pants.
The morning suit
Favorbrook Merino Morning Coat, from £ 720
Favorbrook Merino Westminster Stripe Caballry Bossers, £ 275
Specialist in occasion clothes Favorbrook It offers six different materials in the morning and 11 forms of vest to choose from (morning layers from £ 720, vests from £ 190). The founder Oliver Spencer advises the bride and groom to pay attention to those traditional details that will distinguish him from the guests. “We have just reintroduced jumps from Vest Blanco, for example,” he says. Slips are fine cotton bands with white starch that open in their vest and frame their flaps, a wink to the era of the regency, where it was a common practice to use two waist in layers. Other notable suppliers include Lower Sloane street Oliver Brownwhich offers an amazing morning suit of the Prince of Wales of Wales (£ 900) and Dunhillwhich sent a duo of handsome -looking versions by the track as part of its SS25 collection (tailored from £ 5,900).
The tuxedo
Brunello Cucinelli Silk jacket with pipes, £ 4,100
Tom Ford Weol Weave O’Connor Weol Caqueta (sold as a suit), £ 3,890
The other declaration option, of course, is the tuxedo, popular in the USA and excellent if you are determined to organize a party. The “Tux” takes its name from Tuxedo Park Club north of New York City; The story is that during the 1860s, the club members, inspired by the new “Celestial Blue” dinner of the future King Eduardo VII made by Savile Row Sasterors Henry PooleThe jackets adopted in the same style as an informal uniform.
You can explain why midnight is still a classic color. Brunello Cucinelli It has a racial navy silk dinner jacket finished with cream pipe (£ 4,100), while Tom FordDeep Blue’s Blue O’Connor Blue O’Connor Cost with Satén Ribete remains a modern classic (£ 4,990). Ralph Lauren purple labelNight clothes also play with blue and white tones: cream gabardine jackets are combined with navy blue pants, while jackets with blue satin flaps have blue and white country pants (from £ 977).
Mickael Korausch, founder of the brand centered on the black tie La Bowtique and author of The modern black tie: a guideIt offers a precautionary word. “Keep it classic. Choose a traditional black or blue dinner suit, or a dining jacket with warm climates.” In addition: “A hand-bound tie tie raises a dinner suit. You can wear an incredible suit, but you will ruin the look if you use a pre-attached loop tie.”
“If you wear a classic dinner suit, there are certain things that we encourage to honor tradition,” adds Sebag-Montefiore. “These include flaps with a face of thickness and covered buttons, without breathing in their jacket, without pocket fins and pants with smooth hems. We also suggest changing to a silk shirt and possibly even a jacket for smoking, when the party really starts.”
The smoking jacket
Henry Poole Velvet and custom smoking jacket, from £ 6,102
New & lingwood Velvet smoking jacket, £ 995
A smoking jacket is my third option, and perhaps less conventional. Made in velvet, or occasionally silk moiré, it usually has a chal collar, braided fists, closures and “olivettes” (alternate with cable that function as buttons). Surprisingly, Louche, maybe there is nothing more appropriate for an “main character” wedding appearance.
In Henry PooleCustom smoking jackets are a species (from £ 6,102). “It comes from the Victorian period,” explains the owner Simon Cundey. “After dinner, men would slide to smoking jackets for smoking cigarettes. The velvet absorbs the smell much better than wool.” The poole tend to be double chest, in dark jewel -colored velvet (midnight blue, burgundy or bottle green) with generous satin coatings with chal. The braided fists of the jacket can even be customized. But if a custom smoking jacket feels too extravagant, there are many beautiful options to use. See New & lingwood (£ 995) o Oliver Brownwhich offers jackets in distinctive tones of coal, burned orange and olive green (from £ 495).
What to do, then? Our wedding place is a Victorian music hall in eastern London, so I have decided to go for the black tie. And, having weigh all these suit options, I have also decided to commit polygamy. The ceremony demands an elegant double chest dinner suit in the Midtherd Sexton Midnight Mohair, while the party then requires a decadent Smoking Jacket Velvet Henry Poole (in Midnight Blue again). My conclusion: marry once, but dress twice. And I’m not alone. “Many of our clients wear a morning dress for the ceremony and change to the black tie at night,” says Spencer. “An outfit change during a wedding can be a lot of fun.”
Model, Henry Kitcher in initial. Casting by Piergiorgio del Moro, Helena Balladino in DM casting. Grooming, Dimitris Sarantou in Beehive Artists. Production, Kokkinos coasts in the equipment of this production, Luisa Saro in Tarifa