Unlock Editor’s Digest for free
FT editor Roula Khalaf selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.
When Europe began trading with Asia around 130 BC, one of the most coveted treasures was pepper. The most common variety, black pepper, known as the “queen of spices,” is believed to have originated in India. In medieval times, pepper was often accepted as payment for taxes or rent. Today, it accounts for 20 percent of the world’s spice trade.
These small berries are also valuable to perfumers. Parma water Product and innovation director Paola Paganini says they bring “vibration and impact.” The brand’s Luce di Rosa scent, launching next month, uses black pepper to balance the sweetness of rose, giving it a “gender-fluid dimension.” The New York-based brand DS and Durga combines the fruit with pineapple and orange blossom; and Penhaligon‘s with plum and vanilla, in AlUla.
From Penhaligon Alula, £215 for 100ml EDP
Gabar 04 (Nolita) Rise, £120 for 50ml EDP
Parma water Luce di Rosa, £250 for 100ml EDP, launching 2nd September
DS & Durga Black Magenta, £155 for 50ml EDP, libertylondon.com
Pink pepper grows on a different plant than the black variety, but is often mixed with it in both perfumery and cooking. “It is fresh, lively and sparkling with a pinkish undertone,” she says. Joy Founder Cherry Cheng, whose latest launch, La Bague D’O, works with the berry to “desecrate” a floral bouquet.
Because that’s the joy of pepper. It can be daring: Fendi‘s woody Perché No is named after Silvia Venturini Fendi’s favorite carefree expression, “Why not?” And it can be gentle: the Myanmar brand Gabar Use pink pepper with lavender and cypress in the relaxing 04 (Nolita) Rise. Gabar co-founders Phway Su Aye and Susan Wai Hnin recommend spritzing the fragrance everywhere. Unlike the culinary expression of pepper, you can never have too much.