An insider’s guide to Baden-Baden

Receive free updates from Germany

We will send you a myFT Daily Summary email gathering the latest Germany news every morning.

I grew up in Baden-Baden and still consider it my home, although I now live in London. My mother lives here and I come back often. A short drive from the airport and you will be in this beautiful part of the Black Forest, nestled in hills full of spruce and evergreen trees. Baden-Baden, named for its famous thermal springs, has four seasons. Spring brings apple and cherry blossoms and carpets of crocuses that are out of this world; rhododendrons bloom in summer; and autumn is vibrant and magical. Exotic trees gifted by foreign dignitaries in the past line the Oos River and change color throughout the year.

The city caters to spa lovers, so there are plenty of accommodation options, but my recommendation is the big one. Brenners Park-Hotel, a belle époque treasure located in the middle of a private park. It has its own private gardens and terrace. Another tie is Villa Estefania Next door is the hotel’s annex spa, which has only 15 rooms, although it is also a wonderful day spa.

The Kunsthalle is where I first saw Donald Judd’s work in the 80s.

One of the best places to soak in mineral waters is Friedrichsbad, an iconic spa built in the 19th century in Renaissance style and still attracting people for its incredible combination of baths. There are dry and wet rooms with steam at different temperatures, hot bubble baths and cold pools, all in a beautiful tiled setting. I love the three-hour soap scrub followed by a rest in a quiet area, which is very relaxing and can open your eyes to how tired you’ve been. Be prepared for him to be completely naked.

Food plays a central role here throughout the year. In summer, the fields are filled with white asparagus and the cherry and plum trees provide fruit for our favorite cakes and jams. There are many regional producers of meats, hams, jams and sourdough. One of the best places to find them all in one place is Geroldsauer Mühle: I like to buy their hot potato salads and also maultaschen, a German version of ravioli filled with meat or vegetables. One of the best restaurants here, in my opinion, is filio, a modern, high-end Greek spot serving lamb slow-cooked for 12 hours. I also like Hidden Maltese Cuisine, which is a casual cafe during the day and transforms into a Michelin-starred restaurant at night. In the old town you’ll find Baldreit, a local institution serving typical Badisch cuisine in a charming courtyard, and I love it Capri for a coffee or ice cream. It has been there since 1966 and is the place to watch the world go by.

I like the small private museums here, like the one designed by Richard Meier. Frieder Burda. The collection includes works by Gerhard Richter, Anselm Kiefer and Willem de Kooning, and also features notable programming focused on digital art and artificial intelligence. The adjacent Art Gallery It’s where I first saw Donald Judd’s work in the 1980s and stimulated my love of art and history.

In the case of purchases, most of it goes to food. Konditorei like Café König They are famous for their chocolates and cakes, while the Christmas market is considered by many to be the most beautiful in Germany. You will also find some specialist boutiques that focus on a particular small luxury, such as Olivier Maugé for millinery. Maugé works each year on a small collection of hats for special occasions, the kind you might wear to the local horse races, Die Grosse Woche in Iffezheim, or the perfect straw hat for the beach. AND street books It is a family bookstore and a true source of knowledge.

Of course, great attention is paid to outdoor activities and especially hiking. The Panorama Trail runs through the city and its surroundings, divided into sections of nine to 15 kilometers each. It was recently voted “the most beautiful hike in Germany” and not in vain; The views of lakes, waterfalls and architectural wonders are incredible. My favorite part of the trail is the hike to Stourdza Chapel, near redwoods and giant sequoias.

Baden-Baden is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so I am confident that it will remain protected. There is also a kind of natural protection from the surrounding thick forests. The area has maintained its identity; You can still have a coffee in Capri and it has housed the hotels and restaurants run by generations of families. The only thing that has changed is the world famous Casino Baden-Baden; Traditionally, locals were not allowed in to prevent them from losing money, but now we can play roulette like everyone else.