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Ask Adeela: What is the best sunscreen?


In an age where our phones are also our wallet, watch, and GPS, I also expect smart, multitasking efficiency from daily skincare; especially SPF. And today’s best creams, makeups, and sprays do double duty: they provide skin-improving benefits alongside sun protection.

Sunscreen, of course, goes back a long way: the ancient Egyptians used plant extracts of rice bran, jasmine, and lupine to protect skin from sunburn; indigenous Australians used mud and leaves; the greeks and romans used an olive oil formula. The modern sunscreen was invented in the 1940s by Franz Greiter; the thick paste from it was named Piz Buin after the mountain where it needed sun protection. And although ultraviolet filters had been produced since the late 1920s, their adaptation to sun protection only occurred in 1974; it was then that the sun protection factor (SPF) became the standard for measuring UVB rays. Broad-spectrum and water-resistant formulas followed, and the FDA approved the first UVA/UVB SPF in 1988.

Sisley Super Son Solaire SPF 50+, £150 for 40ml

Sisley Super Son Solaire SPF 50+, £150 for 40ml

Ultra Violette Queen Screen SPF50+ Luminising Serum Skinscreen, £36 for 50ml

ultraviolet Queen Screen SPF50+ Luminising Serum Skinscreen, £36 for 50ml

L'Oréal Revitalift Clinical SPF50+ Invisible Fluid, £19.99 for 50ml

The real Revitalift Clinical SPF50+ Invisible Fluid, £19.99 for 50ml

Chantecaille SeaScreen 30 Mineral Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen Mist SPF30, £65 for 177ml

chantecaille SeaScreen 30 Mineral Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen Mist SPF30, £65 for 177ml

Shiseido Expert Sun Protector Face Cream SPF 50+, £35 for 50ml

Shiseido Expert Sun Protector Face Cream SPF 50+, £35 for 50ml

Use SPF daily. It helps protect not only against sun damage (reducing the risk of melanoma by 50 percent), but also against almost 80 percent of the skin and aging problems I encounter as a facialist (UVA rays lead to the breakdown of collagen, responsible for deep, fine lines). wrinkles, spots and discoloration).

Infrared scans of the author and (right) her assistant...

Infrared scans of the author and (right) her assistant… © Clinicbe in Belgravia, London by Dr. Barbara Kubicka (2)

...showing the effects of sun damage on the skin

…showing the effects of sun damage on the skin

Despite the overwhelming evidence that SPF is vital, clients still tell me they will only use it if they like the way it looks. Fortunately, I have many options to recommend. ultraviolet Queen Screen SPF50+ Luminising Serum Skinscreen is a serum that has been formulated to be compatible with make-up. In addition The real Revitalift Clinical SPF50+ Vitamin C Daily Invisible Fluid, whose texture is designed to be rapidly absorbed without leaving greasy residue or white shine.

Tips to apply

Apply enough: about a shot glass for the entire body and about a quarter teaspoon (1.25ml) each for the face and neck. Not least for high SPF.

Apply 20 minutes before going outside and reapply every two hours (more if you are swimming or sweating).

Do not miss the hairline, eyelids, ears, under the chin and the nape of the neck.

SPF makeup is not enough sun protection on its own. Place it on top of the sunscreen. I like the oil-absorbing Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer Oil-Free Natural Skin Perfector SPF20 UVB/UVA/PA+++ for a matte finish without shine.

Choose an SPF number based on time spent in the sun and intensity of sunlight, which increases with factors such as latitudinal proximity to the equator, the higher the sun is in the sky, summer season, and proximity to reflective surfaces. SPF30 lets through about three percent of UVB rays; SPF50 about two percent. If in doubt, try reapplying generously with an SPF water spray like vichy Capital Soleil Moisturizing Solar Protective Water SPF30, with its light formula enriched with hyaluronic acid.

It’s also helpful to understand the difference between chemical (or “organic”) and mineral (also known as physical “inorganic”) sunscreens. Chemical formulations (such as avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, and octisalate) work like a sponge, absorbing ultraviolet light. Its composition causes a reaction that converts light into heat and dissipates it. Mineral sunscreens, meanwhile, act as a shield. Active ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide protect from UVA and UVB rays and sit on the skin’s surface, deflecting the sun’s rays. They are generally thicker in texture and can leave a white cast.

Vichy Capital Soleil Solar Protective Water SPF 30 Moisturizer, £19.50 for 200ml, boots.com

Vichy Capital Soleil Solar Protective Water SPF 30 Moisturizer, £19.50 for 200ml, boots.com

Nivea Sun UV Face Q10 Anti-Age Sun Cream SPF 50, £13.45 for 50ml

nivea Sun UV Face Q10 Anti-Age Sun Cream SPF 50, £13.45 for 50ml

Ligne St Barth Aloe Vera Mint After Sun Gel, £7.50 for 25ml

Saint Barthelemy line Aloe vera mint after sun gel, £7.50 for 25ml

Bioderma Pigmentbio Daily Care SPF 50+, £18.50 for 40ml

Bioderma Pigmentbio Daily Care SPF 50+, £18.50 for 40ml

La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Aquagel SPF30, £38 for 50ml

la roche posay Hyalu B5 Aquagel SPF30, £38 for 50ml

Chemical sunscreens tend to be lighter and less greasy. ShiseidoOctocrylene-based Expert Sun Protector Face Cream SPF50+ is a great example. But while the chemical ingredients are safe for human use, they have been found to exacerbate reef bleaching and some tourist destinations, including Hawaii, have banned sunscreens containing oxybenzone. If you’re swimming chantecaille SeaScreen 30 Mineral Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen Mist SPF30 is formulated with coral-friendly, non-nano minerals such as zinc oxide; it also contributes five percent of sales to the nonprofit marine organization WildAid. Similarly, the “ocean friendly” formula nivea Sun UV Face Q10 Anti-Age Sun Cream SPF50 does not contain microplastics.

The sun can also aggravate skin disorders like rosacea, acne, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). After exposure, try applying Ligne St Barth Aloe Vera Gel with Mint After Sun to skin stressed by heat. Store in the fridge and apply with a cooling compress. And to prevent heat stress, use products with a mix of antioxidant, moisturizing and protective ingredients: Bioderma Pigmentbio Daily Care SPF50+ is a formula rich in antioxidants that reduces melanin production and enhances cell renewal.

Finally, sun-dried skin craves nothing more than moisture, and sisley Super Soin Solaire SPF50+ acts as a moisturizer, providing deep hydration and that “just returned from the Amalfi Coast” glow. And for those with acne-prone and oily skin, I suggest choosing a product with a cooling, gel-like texture: la roche posay has combined SPF, gel-type moisturizer, and hyaluronic serum into one with their Hyalu B5 Aquagel SPF30.

ask Adele

Do you need advice on stain solutions, makeup or a skin emergency? Send your questions to askadeela@ft.com and she will address your concerns in an upcoming column


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