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The “big three” center stones of fine jewelry were traditionally a fine ruby, a stunning emerald or a silky sapphire. These were valuable gems presented as “specimens,” judged for their value, rarity and perfection according to strict industry classifications. But the rules have changed. This season’s fine jewelry collections demonstrated that the spectacular center stone can now be an intriguing, unusual and unexpected gem, of intense individuality and of spectacularly vibrant or tantalizingly subtle color. As for size, as always, the bigger the better. But today’s center stones are equally prized for their individuality and sophistication.
Personality and presence are key to selecting the center stone in Lugano Diamondsthe California-based jeweler whose luxurious London salon opened its doors earlier this year. A contemporary spiral titanium and diamond necklace, for example, centers on a colossal 50.76-carat Paraíba tourmaline. Emitting an almost otherworldly glow, the necklace is emblematic of CEO and co-founder Moti Ferder’s determination to replace a homogeneous home style with a wide range of creative expressions. “While the size and value of a stone are important, our main emphasis is on how the jewelry resonates personally with the individual,” says Ferder.
A rare spinel, a colored sapphire, a dark diamond and a massive aquamarine are also grabbing attention as unconventional center stones. CartierThe Sycamore necklace by, for example, surprises with stacked aquamarines for a total of 47.47 carats. In Tiffany & Co.In the Blue Book Céleste collection, a reinvention of designer Jean Schlumberger’s favorite cosmic theme, all eyes are on the amethyst of the Shooting Star ring. Tiffany’s chief gemologist, Victoria Wirth Reynolds, says the stone “inspires the inspiration of design and the mood that, in essence, makes it timeless.” Then there’s Victoire de Castellane’s brooch created in collaboration with Kim Jones for the Dior Menfrom the collection: A massive 58.85-carat aquamarine is surrounded by a gem-covered ribbon, pulled by fluttering birds.
Where does the growing demand for large, lushly colored center stones come from? Gem dealer Constantin Wild attributes the interest to growing awareness among mainstream customers. “It’s about individuality, personality and uniqueness,” he says. He agrees that today’s consumers are better informed about colored gemstones, a sophisticated choice that depends on nuances of tone and hue compared to diamonds, which are easier to classify and categorize. They also appreciate its authentic natural beauty. Fashions also change. “In the 1980s, peridot, rubellite and tanzanite were [relatively] affordable and available alternatives to the big three. Today, pastel and mud colors, such as gray spinel or violet-gray sapphire, pale pink morganite or the light green or gray tones of tourmaline, offer a new form of elegance.”
Emily Barber, Sotheby’s director of fine and important jewelery for EMEA, adds: “Sources of traditional colored gemstones, for example rubies from Myanmar or sapphires from Kashmir, are either exhausted or no longer producing fine examples in large numbers. “Therefore, prices have increased exponentially and buyers are looking for alternatives: red spinels are an attractive alternative to rubies, at a lower price.”
As high jewelry collections demonstrate, yellow stones are also enjoying a moment in the sun. Louis VuittonThe Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds collection features a bracelet illuminated by a striking 7.11-carat octagonal-cut yellow sapphire from Sri Lanka. Inspired by 19th-century France, a “phenomenal time of incredible change,” as watch and jewelry artistic director Francesca Amfitheatrof explains, the yellow sapphire evokes an era of cultural enlightenment. Van Cleef & ArpelsThe Dorestad signet-style ring from their Treasure Island collection is designed around a 13.87-carat emerald-cut yellow sapphire. Encrusted in hammered gold and studded with pink sapphires, spessartite garnets and diamonds, it is reminiscent of a medieval treasure.
In BeersThe intense 12.54-carat cushion-cut yellow diamond at the center of the Protection Masterpiece ring symbolizes the lion. Unearthed in Botswana, it is one of four exceptionally rare diamonds labeled as “Natural Works of Art” by De Beers, an indication of its uniqueness. Meanwhile, a dreamy 6.21-carat radiant-cut yellow diamond was the centerpiece of a choker at Chopard‘s Red Carpet, buoyed by a suitably escapist Fairytales theme.
In chaumetThe center stones are described as “the soul” of the Parisian maison’s creations. Customers are increasingly requesting exceptional jewelry that “ignites the imagination.” [and] Also pay tribute to the treasures of the earth,” says Chaumet CEO Charles Leung. Quality and rarity are high on their list of priorities, with special attention to provenance. The “most desirable” emeralds come from Colombia, while rubies in “a beautiful deep red with a hint of raspberry” come from Mozambique and blue and purple sapphires from Madagascar and Sri Lanka. The Joséphine Éclat Floral necklace, for example, features a spectacular 27.08-carat cushion-cut sapphire from Madagascar. Meanwhile, Colombian emeralds lead Bvlgariwhere a dazzling 31.67 carat specimen stars in the Green Carpet necklace, and in graffwhere a new bracelet centers on a 6.02-carat comet-cut gemstone.
The same focus on color was evident in Hermeswhere Pierre Hardy drew on the color theory he discovered as an art student for the Les Formes de la Couleur collection. “I like to start with something that is strict, defined and rigorous in structure, and then organize the diffraction around that,” Hardy says. For the Color Vibes ring, she took a 4.01-carat emerald-cut emerald and wrapped it in waves of vibrantly hued sapphires, spessartite garnets, and baguette diamonds. The effect, according to Hardy, was similar to the wonder generated when black-and-white film is colourized: an image suitable for the transformative power of a jewel.