Could rum become as collectible as whiskey?

Rum is not a spirit that likes to be rushed, but it has undergone rapid change in the last decade: it is now made in more than 50 countries, from Cuba and Japan to Guatemala and Scotland, in many different ways. It’s moving out and up: the “premium and above” category grew 26 percent in volume between 2020 and 2021 (IWSR). The easy grab and go party drink is now increasingly recognized as a serious spirit to drink.

These rums speak a language that is more like whiskey.

Much of the push toward luxury comes from its heart, the Caribbean, where distillers are doing more to highlight rum-making technique and regional variation. Foursquare Rum in Barbados has been a pioneer, campaigning for stricter regulations and naming systems. The pinnacle of their range is Exceptional Cask Selection, a collection of limited-edition aged rums that speak a language more akin to whisky. Undiluted, single cask, unchilled filtered, unsweetened, and sometimes aged, they are the most cerebral rum. The latest release, Foursquare Touchstone (£90), is a blend of 14-year-old rums aged in American oak casks and finished cognac; a harmonious marriage of spicy Bajan classic and French refinement.

Jamaica’s oldest rum producer, the Appleton Estate, has some of the most extensive rum archives in the Caribbean, archives that it has been plundering to create delicious spirits. The indulgent 15-year-old Appleton Estate Black River Cask (£66.94, masterofmalt.com) wraps the distillery’s signature notes of orange zest in silky layers of tiramisu, chocolate and prune. The Deeper 21-Year-Old Mahogany Appleton Estate (£150, masterofmalt.com) sees the citrus character mature into a thick-cut jam; the finish reveals sweet coffee, smooth leather, spices and almond cake.

On Jamaica’s north coast, nestled among fields of sugar cane and banana groves, lies Hampden, a 200-year-old estate famous for using some of the country’s most traditional rum-making techniques. The main one is the use of “muck” and “dunder”, preparations of fermented organic matter and spent yeast, which are added to the fermentation to give their rums a characteristic tropical and spicy touch. The results may be an acquired taste (think papaya, sour apple, black banana, fermented pineapple and blue cheese), but they’re prized among connoisseurs for their character and authenticity (from £69.25, thewhiskyexchange.com).

The rum can reflect the regional tradition. But can you really have a taste of a place? This is the question that the young Granada distillery Renegade is probing. Founded by whiskey entrepreneur Mark Reynier (formerly of Islay’s Bruichladdich and also founder of the Waterford distillery in Ireland), Renegade draws its inspiration from Scotch whiskey and winemaking. He grows several varieties of sugarcane in different plots around the island, distilling each plot individually to create a library of terroir-driven, single-varietal vintage spirits. The rums are distilled from fresh sugarcane juice, instead of molasses, to preserve varietal transparency. And each release is tagged with a code that allows you to mark a level of forensic detail. From the loamy clay of Mango Lan’ to the parched slopes of Goat Hill, each rum has a strong identity. “They’re so scented,” says Jane Nurse, Renegade’s environmental and marketing manager. “They just sing.”

The first pair of slightly aged rums, Études, was recently released. Études: Pearls is made from Yellow Lady cane grown among mangroves and water meadows; it has fresh notes of cane and an appetizing salinity. Its New Bacolet counterpart, from the sun-kissed hills, shows off more dried fruit and sweet spice (both £59.95, thewhiskyexchange.com). If you like a bit of speculation, you can now also buy Renegade rum by the cask and let it age as part of the distillery’s new en primeur program (from £4,950, casktrade.com).

Another secret handshake among fans is Haitian brand Clairin, which bottles artisan spirits from sugarcane juice from some of the country’s more than 500 micro-distilleries. Made with native varieties of sugar cane and sold unaged and undiluted, these liqueurs have the fire and purity of spirits, with flavor profiles that range from more rustic and spicy to delicately citrus and herbaceous. Try Clairin Vaval 2020 Weed (£54.45, thewhiskyexchange.com).

Prices for even the best rums remain relatively subdued (at least compared to whiskey), but according to Dawn Davies, head of buying at The Whiskey Exchange, investors are kicking around: “There is a growing appetite for investment rums. , and we see many of these rums selling instantly upon release. At the moment, this is limited to a few distilleries, but the number of investment grade rums is growing daily.” If you haven’t started exploring rums yet of the Caribbean, you have no time to waste.

@alicelascelles