EU member states have backed a ban on the destruction of unsold clothing in a bid to cut waste from the textile industry, which accounts for a fifth of the bloc’s greenhouse gas emissions.
Nearly 6 million tonnes of textiles are discarded by EU citizens each year, but only a quarter of this is recycled, according to European Commission estimates.
The ban would further boost Brussels’ green credentials, but comes as industry leaders and politicians warn that too much environmental regulation risks stifling Europe’s economies. French President Emmanuel Macron on Thursday called for a “regulatory pause” on new environmental measures so that Europe can focus on enforcing existing laws.
Items returned by consumers to stores are complex for retailers to process and therefore are often discarded or destroyed. Designer brands also often destroy unwanted stock to prevent it from appearing on the black market. British retailer Burberry has revealed it burned £28.6m of unsold goods in 2018, a practice it later stopped after a backlash.
Brussels presented a plan in March last year to encourage recycling and reuse of products through the block. He noted that “the destruction of unsold consumer products, such as textiles and footwear” has become “a widespread environmental problem” due to the rapid growth of online sales.
However, the commission did not specifically ban the destruction of unsold clothing, instead requiring all large companies to report on the quantities of discarded inventory.
EU member states argued for a tougher approach on Friday, backing a specific ban on the destruction of “clothing or clothing accessories,” according to a draft proposal seen by the Financial Times.
This came despite efforts earlier this week by countries such as Sweden, which is home to retail giant H&M, to remove the ban from the text.
France, Germany and the Netherlands were among the member states that pushed for the proposal to be included in the EU’s new so-called ‘ecodesign requirements’.
“It’s very much in line with what we have as an EU target in terms of environmental and recycling targets,” said an EU diplomat who supports the proposal. “I don’t think it will be an additional burden [for businesses].”
Another diplomat said there is a risk that recycling or processing the garments to prevent them from being destroyed could drive up prices for consumers.
According to the draft, small businesses would be exempt from the ban and medium-sized businesses, those with up to 249 employees and an annual turnover of less than €50 million, would have more time to comply. The details are still under discussion.
The proposal will need to be signed by EU ministers and agreed with the European Parliament before it can become law. Member states are expected to vote on the text on 22 May.
Some member states also wanted the requirements to apply to electronic devices and shoes, which are classified differently from clothing, according to two people close to the discussions. Germany has obtained an exemption for cars, which are already subject to several pieces of EU recycling legislation.
‘Ecodesign’ proposals also include a ‘product passport’ to provide information on how products were made and requirements on online marketplaces to ensure they offer compliant products.
Several Member States, including France, have already enacted laws banning the destruction of consumer goods and the Commission’s original proposal states that the measures will also prevent distortions of the single market, as well as reduce the environmental impact of the textile sector.
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