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There are almost too many adjectives to describe toast. Posh isn’t usually one of them. But now a new generation of bakers is preparing a meal from the humble portion through luxurious spreads. Rich and indulgent Malaysian Coconut Kaya and a Black sesame praline extend to a Croissant Butter and a Whipped halva and pumpkin seeds tahini: say hello to super spreads.

“Why not make it fancy when it’s so easy?” asks Sophie Smith, brand manager for Milka brunch cafe in south-west London that sells small jars of its creamy pumpkin seed tahini. Inspired by the Turkish flavors of Milk’s owner’s cultural heritage, the spread is whipped and caramelized with a blowtorch and tastes like hot ice cream. Dmitri Eivin, co-founder of Estonian brand Sunfly, says: “Spreads allow people to experiment with flavors and add a touch of excitement to a simple staple.” Sunfly Sweet and Savory sunflower seed butter It’s earthy and complex – it tastes great on a dark rye topped with ripe raspberries and pumpkin seeds.

Two members of the Milk London team with their own brand Whipped Halva & Pumpkin Seed Tahini
Two members of the Milk London team with their own brand Whipped Halva & Pumpkin Seed Tahini © Brigita Žižytė
Sunfly sunflower seed butter, £5.99, selfridges.com
Sunfly sunflower seed butter, £5.99, selfridges.com

These spreads are disgustingly delicious. Why not eat them in batches with a spoon? Ae Mi Soon, founder of Madam Chang’s, makes her kaya smooth and silky with techniques she and her father used when she was a child in Malaysia. Soon, who now resides in London, admits he has nothing against common condiments; He grew up eating peanut butter sandwiches that he thought were “the best thing since sliced ​​bread.” But kaya, which tastes like Asian vanilla and is made with coconut milk, sugar, quality eggs (she uses Clarence Court) and pandan leaves, is a completely different proposition. It has a “richer, more luxurious mouthfeel” that puts it in an elite condiment category: “The word kaya means ‘rich’ in Malay.” One of the traditional ways to eat it is with fluffy Hainanese white bread that is steamed or toasted (Soon says Warburtons’ Baker’s White Bloomer is the closest British alternative).

Ae Mi Soon, co-founder of Madam Chang's Original Pandan Kaya
Ae Mi Soon, co-founder of Madam Chang’s Original Pandan Kaya © Lauren Harris

Many would say the restructuring of the condiment aisle is long overdue. “Peanut butter, jam or Marmite… they’re so mundane,” says Natalie Lee-Joe, brand manager at Delli, an online store for independent food makers that has many different super spreads, including Pollen Bakery Croissant Butter, which sells out “in a matter of minutes.” Released in occasional “drops,” the spread, in which chunks of caramelized dough are whipped into butter with toasted white chocolate, has a waiting list. “Demand far exceeds supply,” says Lee-Joe.

Theodore Szpindel, founder of Mada Mada, a nut creams brand that sells praline spreads (including black sesame, Darjeeling tea and pistachio and rose) at Fortnum & Mason and Harrods, says this fast-growing category is “a place incredible to discover”. new flavors”, although above the security of something familiar like bread. “We travel more and increasing globalization means we now look at our neighbors’ sandwiches and think, ‘Hey, that looks really good,’” Soon says. The influx of savory flavors is a refreshing change for a category that has predominantly innovated in the sweet jam space: tahini works well with banana sourdough, according to the author and vegan chef. Cristina Soteriou. Meanwhile, Sunfly’s Eivin calls its sunflower seed butter a “game changer” for people with dietary needs: It’s free of the top 14 allergens, including nuts, sesame, dairy and gluten. It has a significant advantage over peanut butter, which is now frequently banned in schools.

Mada Mada founder Theodore Szpindel with the popcorn praline and the almond-hazelnut praline
Mada Mada founder Theodore Szpindel with the popcorn praline and the almond-hazelnut praline ©Marcus Patrick Brown

Signature butters may also be better for you. Unlike big brand products, they tend to be made in small batches with premium ingredients and do not contain genetically modified organisms. “Sunfly’s Cocoa Spread is reminiscent of traditional chocolate hazelnut spread, but contains 70 percent less sugar and three times more protein. [19g per 100g] and it is made with 76 percent seeds,” says Eivin. “Sunflower seeds are rich in vitamin E, magnesium, iron and antioxidants that are often lacking in other spreads.” Mada Mada’s Szpindel agrees: “We have five times the nuts and half the sugar, with no added oils or artificial flavorings.”

Christina Soteriou notes that “many independent makers have immigrant parents or grandparents and are bringing their heritage and cultural food to the market.” By turning traditional dishes into spreads, they are revamping family recipes and reformulating them for the modern palate. She infuses her salted caramel tahini with miso and date syrup. “Traditionally, tahini is not used on toast, but rather as a dessert,” says Milk London’s Smith. “But as a brunch place, we wanted to try something different… It’s a fresh twist on the food that makes you feel something.”

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