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How the cape became casual


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Last summer I saw Stevie Nicks in concert for the first time. It was magical for many reasons: its anecdotal interludes, its touching tributes to the late Tom Petty and his former bandmate Christine McVie, and also for its costumes. Throughout the night, the Fleetwood Mac star donned several of his signature capes; of the resplendent blue-fringed piece she wore on the back of her solo album beautiful donna to her metallic ensemble “Gold Dust Woman.”

Stevie Nicks wears the cape from the back cover of her solo album Bella Donna at a concert in 1981.
Stevie Nicks wears the cape from the back cover of her solo album Bella Donna at a concert in 1981.
Tabu as Sister Francesca in the HBO series Dune: Prophecy
Tabu as Sister Francesca in the HBO series Dune: Prophecy © HBO

Capes, adjacent to a shawl but different from a poncho, which is worn over the head, were formerly worn on ancient military uniforms to protect against the elements. In the medieval period, they became more closely associated with church insignia. In the 20th century, they reached their peak in haute couture, central to the futuristic designs of Pierre Cardin and the experimental iterations of embroidery in Schiaparelli.

Burberry Checked Wool Cape, £1,090

Burberry plaid wool cape, £1,090

Marni leopard print wool cape, £6,500, farfetch.com

Marni leopard print wool cape, £6,500, farfetch.com

Usually a cape gives off very dramatic messages. Angelina Jolie, for example, is a long-time fan; a predilection that was only reinforced by her recent performance as opera-cloaked Maria Callas. Capes have also dominated the red carpet lately: Dune: Part Two The press tour brought many dresses with cape details to the party, as the actors looked to dress according to the promotional program. But if you look closely at the new season’s styles, you’ll discover an unexpected daytime charm.

A caped model at Chloé's AW24 ready-to-wear show in Paris, February 2024
A caped model at Chloé’s AW24 ready-to-wear show in Paris, February 2024 © GettyImages
Capes on the catwalk at Chanel's SS25 womenswear show at Paris Fashion Week
Capes on the catwalk at Chanel’s SS25 womenswear show at Paris Fashion Week © GettyImages

Where ChloeThe AW24 collection features many knee-length examples, as well as shorter “capes”, in cotton, leather and warm winter plaid. BurberryThe SS25 layering offering looks more like a raincoat, with the addition of a hood and a distinctive wax-like effect. AlaïaPieter Mulier included several pleated versions in his New York Fashion Week debut at the Guggenheim last September. Gabriela Hearst has created a trench coat and cape hybrid, and the Japanese brand auralee offers a similar one with its homage to the Ulster coat. Meanwhile, in chanellayering featured heavily in SS25: tufted in chiffon and often paired with denim.

Mary of the Order Wool Clery Cape, £246

Mary of the Order Wool Clery cape, £246

Chloé cotton gabardine cape, £1,665, mytheresa.com

Chloé cotton gabardine cape, £1,665, mytheresa.com

Barcelona designer Blanca Miró Scrimieri models a cape from her collection
Barcelona designer Blanca Miró Scrimieri models a cape from her collection

London designer Isa Arfen returned to womenswear last year after pausing her eponymous label in 2019. The new line specializes in knitted capes (from £732) which she pairs with an “everyday uniform” of jeans and booties .

“What I love about capes is that there is a certain decadence to their silhouette and movement, but at the same time there is a sense of ease and a relaxed attitude towards them,” she says. “You don’t have to be a certain age, size or shape to feel good.”

Toteme Wool Double Scarf Coat, £1,140, ​​harrods.com

Toteme Wool Double Scarf Coat, £1,140, harrods.com

Sacai wool felt and denim cape, £1,670, net-a-porter.com

Sacai wool felt and denim cape, £1,670, net-a-porter.com

Loro Piana wool and cashmere Daisy cape, £3,585

Loro Piana Wool and cashmere Daisy cape, £3,585

Cos Merino Wool Cape, £135

because merino wool cape, £135

Edel Kelly, a “layer obsessive” and founder of noble daughtersan accessories brand based in Donegal, Ireland, is currently preparing to launch its own Noble Daughter layering capsule, based on the colorful appliqué technique it uses for its bags. While he is conscious of designing for a more casual client, he admits to having an ecclesiastical bent. “It’s my long-neglected Catholic upbringing that’s sneaking in.” I guess sometimes a little drama doesn’t hurt.

For style tips, Barcelona designer and layering aficionado Blanca Miró Scrimieri suggests pairing them with Simple, well-fitted basics, like straight-leg jeans, tailored trousers or a midi skirt.” And for the shoes? “Loafers and boots work perfectly,” she says, “but the trick is to let the cape be the star of the look.”