This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Edinburgh
Outdoor activities in the frigid Scottish night may seem exhausting, but Edinburgh’s New Year’s festival has enough fire and flames to keep you warm. The city’s four-day celebration of Hogmanay (the Scottish word for the last day of the year) begins with a torch-lit parade dating back to pagan times and culminates with cannons and fireworks exploding from the medieval castle overlooking the town. city. On the days in between, revelers sing their hearts out, dance at ceilidhs (traditional Scottish folk dances) and cradle their warm babies in front of foggy pub windows. The party ends abruptly on January 1 with a swim in the frigid Firth of Forth.
Hogmanay has been Scotland’s main winter celebration since the Christmas “Yule” was banned in 1640 during the Protestant Reformation, and New Year’s Eve stepped in to fill the need for a New Year’s Eve party. Ironically for Protestants, the ban revived pagan customs across Scotland, such as house-cleaning the “night before” the new year to sweep away any lingering bad luck, fire parades, and taking the first step – the belief that the first person crossing the threshold January 1st will bring good or bad luck to the home for the coming year. The first to arrive were the dark-haired men who brought gifts such as whiskey, coal or peat for warmth, bread and silver coins.
In Edinburgh, candlelit Hogmanay gatherings used to take place around the 17th-century Tron Kirk church, culminating in a performance of “Auld Lang Syne,” the Robert Burns poem set to folk music. The celebration became wilder over time and attracted more visitors, and in 1993 the city hosted the first official street party on the main street of Princes Street and Gardens. A traditional element is preserved with the Candlelight Concert at St Giles Cathedral the afternoon of December 31.
Over time, more festivities were added to the street party, and Hogmanay now encompasses a full program of ticketed events, so popular that planning ahead is highly recommended. Below is a timeline to help you navigate the nights leading up to New Year’s Eve and the eve itself.
Make sure you wear plenty of warm clothing, bring a thermos and a flask as there are no pubs in prime viewing locations such as Princes Street and Calton Hill, and be prepared to stay out all night. As fireworks explode into the ink-black Scottish sky, take the arms of those around you to sing “Auld Lang syne” and sip a traditional shot of whiskey for “you and yours.”
Torchlight procession (December 29)
To kick off four days of festivities, organizers of Edinburgh’s Hogmanay street party revived a historic tradition found in rural Scotland: the torchlight parade. They were inspired by the famous ritual of the village of Comrie in Perthshire, a ritual believed to date back to pagan times. He Comrie Flambeaux is meant to cleanse the village of evil spirits, and the torches are symbolically thrown into the River Earn at the end. In Edinburgh, the procession begins at 7:30 p.m., along the tree-lined avenues of the Meadows. The park comes alive with flames and the smell of smoky wax as some 20,000 torchbearers, accompanied by bagpipers and drummers, march just over a mile through the Meadows, over the George IV Bridge, along Johnston Terrace and to the doors of the castle, with the torches held high. like a viking invasion. This year, Shetland Islanders launching the legendary Viking-inspired costume Until Helly Aa The fire carnival at the end of January will travel to Edinburgh to add an extra pagan flair to Hogmanay.
Arrive at Meadows before 6pm A torch costs £20 and procession bracelets cost £7.50. buy tickets here
New Year’s Eve Ceilidhs
In the early afternoon of December 31, a ceilidh used to take place under the castle in the gardens on West Princes Street, but it was moved inside the Assembly Rooms on George Street. Two are planned: one at 2 p.m. (the Bairns New Year’s Eve Partiesa family event) and another in 21:00. Ceilidhs are the best and easiest way to interact with a large group. Beginners may bump into others and turn in random directions, but this is all part of the fun and should be accepted. It’s hard to go too wrong, as callers guide you through simple steps before each dance begins. Then a live string and accordion folk band plays classic ceilidhs like the Gay Gordons, Strip the Willow, Postie’s Jig and more, and organized chaos ensues. The millennium Hogmanay ceilidh even set a world record: almost 2,000 people paraded down George Street in the longest line ever seen at Strip the Willow.
Hogmanay Street Party and Garden Concert
Two simultaneous ticketed events, with singers, bands and DJs taking to stages in Princes Street and Gardens, Castle Street and Waverley Bridge. Previous Concert in the Gardens headliners have included Pulp, Primal Scream, Pet Shop Boys and Blondie; this year it’s Glasgow, Texas and Edinburgh singer-songwriter Callum Beattie. Starting at 8 p.m., tickets from £72.50; book here.
For the Hogmanay street party, arrive well in advance, at least before 9:00 pm, as it gets very crowded. At the stroke of midnight, fireworks explode from the castle to the rhythm of dramatic music from a live orchestra. At the end, the crowd along Princes Street join hands and sing “Auld Lang Syne.” The toasts are made with shots of whiskey, and when the fireworks are over, everyone dances through the streets to the music as best they can, before the bustling mass of people. From 8pm, tickets from £30; book here
calton hill
In recent years I’ve avoided the street party and watched the scene for free from the top of Calton Hill, a high point just above Princes Street that’s still close enough to feel part of the action. (Those who want to get an aerial view of the city can climb the largest hill in Arthur’s seat). For me, Calton Hill is the most atmospheric place to see off the year: the misty Firth of Forth lies behind, Arthur’s Seat is to one side, looking out over Edinburgh, and the city lights shine below. Like the street party, this place is also packed with people, but with small groups of friends setting up picnics with hot sausages wrapped in foil, thermoses of alcohol-infused hot chocolate, and packets of sparklers. Instructions
New Year’s Eve somewhere else
For a more intimate experience, head to Inverleith Park in the north of Edinburgh to watch the fireworks from a distance. Here, the fun is free and more family-focused, with midnight picnics and people bringing instruments. Early planners could also try to make a reservation at Chaophraya restaurant for top-notch Thai food and rooftop views of the castle, or try the equally picturesque W Hotel. Lounge. On the south side of town, Brunsfield Links The park next to Meadows also offers good views of the castle. Enjoy a “Hogmanay Hoolie” dinner in the cozy golf tavern then head out to the Links at midnight to watch the sky light up.
New Year’s Day Loony Dook
Hangover? If so, join the thousands of people across Scotland who bathe in costume in icy waters to numb their extremities on New Year’s Day. The closest “Loony Dook” to Edinburgh is South Queensferry, under the Forth Rail Bridge. A drum band marches through the streets as hundreds of dookers in extravagant costumes ranging from Scottish warriors to flamingos prepare to plunge into the icy waters off the Fife coast. Bring a flask and instant porridge, as the pubs will not open so early in the morning, although the party atmosphere persists. It’s all for charity, a thought that may warm you as you shiver on the journey back to Edinburgh (bookable bus transfers are usually arranged for the Loony Dook). Tip: Don’t be fooled if you see locals in swimsuits and bikinis. If you are coming from warmer climates, be careful and watch out for hypothermia. This swim is for the daredevils and the brave. From 1 p.m.; more information here
If you’re planning to be in Edinburgh over the festive season, how will you celebrate Hogmanay? Tell us in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter
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