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How to pack for a family holiday in North Wales


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My husband’s late stepfather bought a small but perfectly designed cottage in Snowdonia decades ago. Its windows look down the valley from Blaenau Ffestiniog towards Harlech on one side and the colorful curiosity that is the Italian madness of Portmeirion on the other. My whole family loves going there. Navigating the castles is an almost daily activity for me, my husband and my three children (ages 7, 5 and 2). Harlech, Criccieth, Beaumaris, Caernarfon and Conwy are old friends; Chirk is on the list for this trip. We also have several favorite coves on the Llŷn Peninsula for days of paddling, jumping in rock pools and making sandcastles. And obviously, with the spectacular mountainous topography, you have to walk; I haven’t gotten the kids to Snowdon yet, but let’s just say they’re training.

Welsh Falchion Sword and Pembroke Dragon Shield

Falchion Welsh Sword, £8.99 and Pembroke Dragon Shield, £16, theknightshop.com
Falchion Welsh Sword, £8.99 and Pembroke Dragon Shield, £16, theknightshop.com

No trip to a castle is complete without three sets of wooden swords and shields. The key is good binding, strong, light and resistant wood. Two have Welsh dragons and one has an English cross. For obvious reasons. Welsh Falchion Sword, £8.99, theknightshop.com; Pembroke Dragon Shield, £16, theknightshop.com


Solar Buddies Sunscreen Applicators

Solar Buddies Sunscreen Applicators, £18.98 for three
Solar Buddies Sunscreen Applicators, £18.98 for three

I hate gadgets for gadgets’ sake and at first I was completely scathing about these kids’ sunscreen applicators, but by God, I’ve changed my mind. I pour 100ml of sunscreen and it diffuses through a soft circular sponge, so my kids can put it on themselves. In fact, it delivers on its promise of being simple and easy to use. Each of my children has a different color and they love wearing them. Win, win. Triple set, £18.98, solarbuddies.com


Meadows Rowan Cardigan

Meadows Rowan Cardigan, £210
Meadows Rowan Cardigan, £210

I always bring a good sweater for cold nights and to stay comfortable after swimming. I love the dropped shoulders and balloon sleeves in a stripe of cable knitwear from Meadows. My sold out sweater is actually a kind of tan brown, but I also like this olive cardigan, which is still available. £210, prados-store.com


Hamam Towels

Classic Cologne and Cotton Hamam Towels, £32
Classic Cologne and Cotton Hamam Towels, £32

When getting to a beach probably involves a steep hike up cliffs or a long walk across grassy sand dunes, the only way to carry towels for five people (plus an incredible number of other gubbins) is to have a cotton Hamam thin and light. . Again, each one has a different color; Plus, there’s an extra-large one that doubles as a mothership picnic blanket. Cologne and Cotton Similars, £32, colonyalgodon.com


Cubitts View Sunglasses

Cubitts View Sunglasses, £150
Cubitts View Sunglasses, £150

I’ve never found suntan lotion, sea salt, sand, and contact lenses to be summer’s happiest friends, and these visor sunglasses avoid all that. I feel like I’m turning into my mother, but I’m basically okay with that. I have them in tortoiseshell, but I would like them in yellow. £150 including prescription lenses, cubitts.com

The author swims at Cwm Idwal in Snowdonia, Wales.
The author swims at Cwm Idwal in Snowdonia, Wales.

Barbour Wax Storm Hood

Barbour Wax Storm Hoody, £37.95
Barbour Wax Storm Hoody, £37.95

Because it’s Wales in summer. I love my beat up old Barbour, but I’d love it even more if it had a hood. It is fixed with snap buttons on the neck. £37.95, barbour.com


Mark time by Elizabeth Jane Howard

Marking Time by Elizabeth Jane Howard, £10
Marking Time by Elizabeth Jane Howard, £10

Earlier this year I finally read (after too many recommendations to count) He Light years, the first of the Cazalet Chronicles. It is about a sprawling multi-generational aristocratic family in Sussex in 1937-8 who are happily in denial about the seismic cultural, social and political changes taking place around them, not least brought about by the imminent outbreak of the Second World War. Everything everyone told me was correct. I can’t wait to escape to the second installment. £10, en.bookshop.org


Anya Hindmarch Logo Lotion and Potion Bag

Anya Hindmarch Logo Potion & Lotion Bag, £195
Anya Hindmarch Logo Potion & Lotion Bag, £195

My cousin gave this to me a million years ago; It is so durable that it still looks new. The contents are reduced to: Westman Atelier Skin Activator (£138 for 20ml) – Absolutely the best thing I’ve found to put on my face first thing in the morning. In addition to the brand’s Liquid Super Loaded in sun skin (£53), which gives a sun-kissed glow to cheeks that probably won’t see real sun. Minus each shade SPF 30 (£85 for 60ml): A cult sun cream for good reason, and Artah Enhanced Nootropic Supplements (£36) – because who doesn’t need stress relief and a cognitive boost on a family holiday (!). AND Tweezers (£23), for ticks. £195, anyahindmarch.com

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