How to prevent and treat stains? By a former acne sufferer

Receive free beauty updates

we will send you a myFT Daily Recap email rounding up the latest Beauty news every morning.

I battled adult acne in my early 20s, and my obsession with skin health products, treatments, and new innovations led to a life-changing career move from finance to care. of the skin. But even after years of study, research, and hands-on practice, I still groan inwardly every time I see a blemish.

Breakouts develop when the increase in androgens in the body (also known as “sex” hormones, such as testosterone) triggers an overproduction of sebum (the skin’s natural lubricant), which clogs hair follicles and leads to colonization of the pores by a bacterium known as Propionibacterium acnes (p acnes). The resulting inflamed concoction can manifest itself in a number of ways: trapped under the skin, devoid of of oxygen, it becomes a whitehead or a cyst that is tender to the touch. When combined with bacterial cells, it becomes a pustule (pimple). When exposed to an open pore, it oxidizes and turns into a black dot.

Through my personal battle with adult acne and my experience, I am well aware of the effect that severe breakouts can have, not only because of the physical scarring, but also because of the psychological impact and costs of treatment. According to a report in the British Journal of Dermatology, acne is estimated to affect 9.4 percent of the world’s population, making it the eighth most prevalent disease worldwide.

With spot control, remember that prevention is smarter than a self-cure. Acne is an eventual “effect”, not the cause. Here are my tips for minimizing breakouts and scarring.

Clean with salicylic acid based products

Although breakouts aren’t just a problem for oily skin, controlling excess sebum production from the skin and exfoliating dead skin is the first step in minimizing breakouts. A twice daily wash with a salicylic acid based cleanser such as CeraVe’s Blemish Control Facial Cleanser with 2% Salicylic Acid and Niacinamide It will penetrate the pores to help eliminate the cause of blemishes and blemishes, respecting the skin’s natural barrier. Oil-soluble salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that works more deeply than water-soluble AHAs. BHA penetrates the lipid layers of the skin to reach blocked pores and purge oil and congestion. For a one-two punch to amplify BHA results, layer on niacinamide (vitamin B3) – it will help fight redness and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and minimize long-lasting damage.

Gently exfoliates and helps to resurface the skin.

Oil isn’t the only villain in the outbreak saga; another key player is “keratinized” dead skin. Excess keratin (tough fibrous protein) can block hair follicles or pores, forming small, hard plugs. This is how most acne starts. An exfoliating cocktail of AHA, BHA and PHA (polyhydroxy acids) as Natura Bissé Stabilizing Rejuvenating Essence soaked in a cotton pad, after cleansing and applied to affected areas will dissolve the intracellular “glue” that holds skin cells together. This will gently resurface, regulate oil, and improve the effectiveness of the products that follow.

Use specific clay treatment masks once or twice a week

Masks rich in activated carbon and volcanic clay such as Black magic from seed to skin (€97.54 for 50ml) neutralize environmental toxins and sebum to disinfect and balance sebum, and stop the proliferation of bacteria and oil. Franco-Japanese brand The EviDenS de Beauté Intense Purifying Mask It is a blend of Japanese Kaga clay and French red clay fortified with papain enzymes and bacillus ferment protease. Enzymes are nature’s “Pac-Man” chewing up keratin (dead skin) granules.

Nourishes the skin’s microbiome with a topical probiotic

The skin’s natural microbiome is made up of good and bad bacteria. In the same way that imbalanced bacteria can damage our gut lining and cause indigestion and bloating, an imbalanced skin microbiome is linked to breakouts. Enter probiotics: live organisms that regulate digestion, fight potential pathogens or environmental invaders, and even strengthen the immune system. A topical probiotic like Esse Probiotic Serum contains billions of probiotics Lactobacillus CFU per ml, which helps nourish the skin’s natural microbial diversity and strengthen the barrier function.

Apply an oil-free day cream to lock in the hydration of the serum.

Biossance Squalane & Probiotic Gel Moisturizer With its light texture that soothes the complexion and its blend of restorative probiotics it does the job brilliantly.

Protect against the sun

The sun’s infrared heat can irritate and exacerbate acne, while the sun’s UVA rays encourage melanin production, darkening any PIH caused by acne scars. It is crucial to use a non-comedogenic sunscreen; half a teaspoon on the face and neck of Aesop’s Protective Facial Lotion SPF25. Reapply every two hours when exposed to the sun.

Consider retinoids

Breakups are very personal, so there is no practical, one-size-fits-all solution. So if OTC (over the counter) skin care and treatments aren’t having the desired effect, see a dermatologist for a prescription retinoid. Topical retinoids work to reduce excess oil on the face and help unblock pores. An example is adapalene gel (Differin 0.1%). Isotretinoin, or Accutane, is a drug that treats severe acne, prescribed for four to five months, although the length of treatment can vary from person to person.

For those who wish to avoid the use of prescription acne medications, or if the skin is not ready for it, try Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream Infused with a potent dose of 1% vegan retinol to jump start the skin’s recovery and repair process.

heal scars
Prescription and over-the-counter interventions will only stop new blemishes from forming, but will not help heal scars. Minimally invasive treatments in the clinic such as Potenza, offered at 111 Harley St (a course of five starts from £2,300) is an FDA-cleared radio frequency (RF) microneedling treatment for the face and body that drives monopolar and bipolar RF at 1MHz or 2MHz through ultra-fine needles to pierce the top layer of the skin. The resulting micro-injury triggers the body’s wound-healing response: collagen and elastin replenishment. With as little as a day or two of inactivity, a series of treatments four weeks apart can help reduce acne inflammation, as well as tighten and firm the skin.

For home maintenance, in my experience, a few sessions with Qure LED Light Therapy Mask ($329) helps take advantage of the p acnes bacteria: neutralizing wavelengths to reduce breakouts. Qure’s accompanying iPhone/Android mobile app allows you to customize your treatment plan. At-home LED treatments take longer to get from A to B than in-clinic LED panels and since the treatment program shuts off after a three minute cycle, my suggestion would be to do a few repetitions of the program at each session to maximize results. .