Skip to content

HTSI editor letter: Presentation of the Vanguardia de la Fashion


Stay informed with free updates

HTSI Jo Ellison editor
HTSI Jo Ellison editor © Marili Andre

This problem celebrates those people who do not follow fashion, but carry it: establish new agendas and create different templates for how we use, we see, use and think about our clothes. At 32, Swedish designer Ellen Hodakova Larsson It is still only at the beginning of his career, but the recipient of the LVMH award last year is already making waves with his recycled craft brand at the haute couture level. Hodakova has understood the thorny issue of sustainability to offer garments that raise those discarded or not used. Buttons, and yes, its prices can be astronomical, but together with its red carpet pieces, it has a solid incorporated business in direct sales to consumers that focus on more daily needs. Like the face of a more ecological generation, “the Greta Thunberg of Fashion” is showing us the way. There is something beautiful to see the transformation of something unwanted in great convenience.

Selena Forrest Wears Philo Wool Milanese Philos
Selena Forrest Wears Philo Wool Milanese Philos © Cathy Kasterine

Linder Sterling has been destroying the rules book since the 70s, when he made works of art for the punk scene that helped create. She reminds us that the word “glamor” derives from a scottish term of the 18th century “glamor”, which means enchantment or a spell. Linder’s photomontages are lovely, carefully subverting the tropes of femininity with a cunning humor that mocks the male look. A retrospective opens this month at the Hayward Gallery in London. It is the first for the 70 -year -old artist, who handles her scalpel on the model and photographer Laura Bailey For an exclusive special collaboration for HTSI.

Flows gently outside me, by border
Flows gently outside me, by border © Linder/Hazel Gaskin

Norma Kamali, the creator of the coat of the sleeping sack, a padded cloud of warmth and comfort, is another remarkable member of our avant -garde. The New Yorker, 79, has preserved its relevance in a capricious market by sticking to a rigorous aesthetic that combines utility and innovation with the great silhouettes of statements. Like our esthete, She shares her passion for her hometown, Dachshunds and her legendary Rome Strip.

Kamali Norma at Casa in Manhattan
Kamali Norma at Casa in Manhattan © Andy Jackson

Selena Forrest made her debut on the catwalk 10 years ago. He immediately stood out, less for his agile beauty, almost wild, but because he would “break” the character on the catwalk to offer an insufficient wink. Forrest brings fire and personality to an industry that often prefers its models to play the demure silent muse. We applaud your attempt to introduce a little more punk attitude.

Joanna Hogg at the Curzon Mayfair Cinema in London
Joanna Hogg at the Curzon Mayfair Cinema in London © Adama Jalloh

Finally, I was lucky Interview Joanna HoggOne of my favorite filmmakers, whose last collaboration is the 2025 subject of the Miu Miu Women’s Ta series. Hogg’s cinematographic work is extracted from a large amount of personal experience, a great observation already often personal accessories. In this case, however, he launched the Wander, one of Miu Miu’s best known accessories, to take the leading role. It is a reminder of how we think of our possessions, the useful life of a garment and why we should appreciate things again.

@jellison22

I want to read HTSI before all others? Get all the main stories directly to your entrance tray every Friday. Register in our free weekly newsletter here