HTSI Editor’s Letter: Introducing Fall Women’s Fashion

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It’s been a while since I’ve considered skirt suits, 10-denier tights, or pumps, but this season they seem to be back in style. For that we can thank Anthony Vaccarello, creative director of Saint Laurent, whose AW23 show exhumed the powerhouse dresser and brought her to the forefront. In fact, the glamorous aesthetic was a feature of many autumn/winter shows: waists were cinched, shoulders were broadened, and there were plenty of blazers. I stopped noticing how many times I wrote “manly coat” and “gray.”

The looks were formal, but they were not an expression of some new conservatism abroad. I was reminded of women like Inès de la Fressange, Kim Basinger, Sade and other muses of the ’80s who radiated confidence and a smoky, seductive charm. In this fall style issue, Jessica Beresford examines the return of power dressing against the current context. While the nod to the 80s has been unmistakable, the effect is now less The Bitch, played by Joan Collins, while the sensuality is more contained.

Another trend: this season revolves around sensations. Our main shoot is based on feathers, padding and diaper fabrics that give each item a tactile touch. It’s a sentiment established on our cover (pictured above), in which model Victoria Fawole wears a Burberry down coat. Daniel Lee’s debut for the brand eschewed the trench coat and garments one might associate with the British luxury house to deliver a collection that fused a variety of elements, including duck prints, checks and punk. He also set the mood for cozy fashion, in spirit if not style: Every seat at the show was accompanied by a hot water bottle wrapped in a wool tartan coat.

This season, Saint Laurent exhumed the powerful chest of drawers and put it back in the spotlight

As a conscious consumer looking for leather alternatives for shoes and bags, FOOT Fashion editor Lauren Indvik has evaluated the options for us and evaluated the progress made so far. In addition to ethical considerations about how animals are treated, the environmental costs of leather are worrying: the methane produced by cows is 25 times more potent than carbon dioxide, and the tanning process releases toxic chemicals that can contaminate the skin. waterways. Are the current alternatives better or more accessible for those who do not have great means? Lauren’s report provides hope for the ethical shopper, as well as some covetable vegan accessories.

Julie de Libran, former designer of Prada, Louis Vuitton and Sonia Rykiel, and now creator of her own eponymous brand, will always be in fashion. An industry veteran (she knows all its secrets), Julie is one of the kindest and most elegant people in the fashion world. For this topic, We asked him to name his muses.. From her sister Fanélie Phillips, the company’s CEO, to novelist Amanda Sthers, her team embodies the same sensual, carefree charisma intrinsic to her brand.

And that’s not the end of my favorite things in this issue: we also have model The Marseille Cafe by Erin WassonAmanda Harlech Welsh Jacobean Hideawayspa life in The murky and magical waters of Budapestand The Alison Loehnis Style Book. But nothing is so magnificent in this HTSI as the view of the editor and fashion consultant Alexia Niedzielski resplendent in a technicolor sunset as she emerges like a mermaid – and eight months pregnant – from the seas of Rio de Janeiro.

@jellison22