HTSI Editor’s Letter: Special Autumn Style for Men

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What will men wear this season? It is increasingly likely that it will not be a formal suit. We have been following the disappearance of traditional tailoring in HTSI, and while the conventional two-piece suit and tie is still seen in the strictest corners of the city, there has been a considerable departure from the codes of yesteryear. The professional wardrobe of 2023 will most likely include some knitwear, a pair of tailored pants, certainly a jacket and perhaps a hybrid sneaker. The look is sleek but soft, without rigidity, and while the suit remains a staple, the jacket and pants are likely to be worn separately or at the same time.

At Zegna, artistic director Alessandro Sartori has been quick to pick up on the mood in fashion, early spotting the trend for understated, luxurious and casual clothing that has since been dubbed “stealth wealth.” At the brand’s headquarters in Milan, Jessica Beresford discovers how Sartori and his team have reconsidered the Zegna offers to offer a more contemporary wardrobe. The group’s profits say it is working. The suit may not be dying, but it is evolving into something that works for a younger consumer (raised on sneakers), as well as those generations who still want to look appropriate for work.

It could be said that it was Martine Rose, the one who brought sportswear to haute couture – through the London brand that bears her name, as well as through Balenciaga, where, as a men’s fashion consultant, she helped usher in the era of oversized, baggy, sports-tinged clothing. After being the focus of much media speculation over the past year (she was approached to take the menswear job at Louis Vuitton), she met Louis Wise as she launches a third collaboration with Nike and takes on a creative role. for Clarks. After 16 years running her own label and making investments, she’s not interested in moving and she’s starting to enjoy the kind of recognition that has made her, dare we say it, a little more mainstream. Rose tries not to strategize or plan too precisely, but her sense of the zeitgeist makes her a great barometer for predicting what’s to come.

You know gstaad boy? Gstaad Guy, the Instagram influencer who satirizes the lifestyle of the ultra-rich, combines the personalities of Constance, a European mixer who uses Loro Piana, and the younger, roguish Colton, a flash startup guy who loves big logos and wear hats. LV from end to end. Gstaad Guy, the brainchild of an anonymous creator living in London, will make you laugh out loud or make your fingers itch with irritation. Love it or hate it, the satirical tale has made quite a bit of money as brands have rushed to include the comical alter egos in their products. In the world of luxury influence, it’s a case of poacher turned gamekeeper, or something like that, except the poacher is wearing an Audemars Piguet watch worth £250,000.

Brown is my favorite color, especially because it combines very well with gold.

As far as luxury watches go, I’m right behind. the trend of brown watches. Chocolates, tans and beiges, once an anomaly in new collections, have proliferated this year. Nick Foulkes explains the increase as part of the rise in watch collecting: dials tend to take on a sepia-like patina when the watch is more “mature.” Whatever it is, I love them. After all, brown is my favorite color, especially, as one expert correctly points out, because it combines so well with gold.

Finally, to Paris, now cover article photographed with friends (and models) Lucas El Bali and Takfarines Bengana, photographed wandering around the city in true Jean-Luc Godard style. Photographed by Nathaniel Goldberg and styled by Anastasia Barbieri, it is totally transportive and captures the nostalgia of this season. annéesfolles glamor in the most romantic destination, at the most magical time.

@jellison22