Insider’s Guide to Corsica

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I’ve lived on the French island of Corsica on and off for 12 years, but I’ve been coming here for 45. My parents first visited in 1973 and loved it so much they bought a little house, so we spent holidays here every year. And because we grew up travelling all over the world (my father was a UN diplomat), it always felt like home. It was the only place I ever went back to.

When I started My swimwear brand In 2003, I started spending more and more time here. I live in Porticcio, on the Gulf of Ajaccio, where we used to go to visit. The light is phenomenal and I am very inspired by the colours and textures of the local beaches; all my swimsuits are named after them.

Ajaccio, the capital of Corsica, has an ancient citadel and small pedestrian streets with an Italian flair: the island is closer to Italy than to France. On one side, there are palm trees, oleanders and the sea; on the other, snow-capped mountains. Val d’Ese ski resort It’s a 40-minute drive away and if you go up on a weekday it’s like having your own private ski resort – from one of the slopes you can see the Mediterranean as you ski. Afterwards you can come down and go surfing or snorkelling for sea urchins. From December to April sea urchins are a speciality here and people have big picnics on the beach, snorkelling for them and drinking wine.

My favourite beach is the one I used to visit as a child, Mare é Sole. It has lovely white sand and crystal-clear water, but by 10am it’s already packed. Another favourite is Cupabia, which has a great restaurant, Cala di Cupabia. When you’re on the beach you can’t see the road, just the mountains and the sea.

Because the produce is so good, we end up eating at home a lot, but I love pizza and there are two great places nearby. L’Epizzeria Frédo is family-style; I order the Sale e Pera with caramelized pear, gorgonzola and walnuts. YU Papacionu, on a small pedestrian street next to the cathedral where Napoleon Bonaparte was baptized, is an Ajaccio institution. When it opens in the summer, everyone goes there.

Corsican food is usually quite tasty: winter stews and wild boar. Cheeses and cured meats are very popular, so it’s fun to go to the market in Ajaccio. One shopkeeper, Eric Targetti, has known me since I was three. He has done so well that he now has five shops on the island: he runs Stella di Mare in Ruppione and his sons run others.

I would say that Bonifacio, in the south, is the prettiest town. It’s on top of a cliff and from there you can take the ferry to Sardinia. This is the second year of its De Renava art biennial, which shows works by Bill Viola and BasquiatAt the nearby Hotel Genovese, the restaurant is built into the ancient citadel walls and the Italian chef prepares incredible pasta.

When you cross the island, you go through the Vizzavona Pass. You can see the pine forests and, when there is little fog, I think I am in the Himalayas. Nearby there is a shepherd’s house, La Bergerie de Tolla, on the top of the mountain. GR20one of the most famous and difficult hiking routes in Europe. You can walk, swim in the rock pools and then eat delicious cheese at their home.

Another place to stay is Villa Urbana, a new boutique hotel in Ajaccio. It’s very modern and the views from the two pools are incredible. I’m looking forward to the spa opening in November. In the south, Les Bergeries de Figari is a collection of five old stone pens, each accommodating between two and five people, and with individual pools, plus a small villa-hotel. There are 20 alpacas roaming around, so it’s great for kids.

And while you’re here, you should definitely buy local products. Marc-Antoine Corticchiato is an amazing perfumer with his own brand, Perfume by EmpireI go to Maison Blanche in Ajaccio to buy their perfumes. At Empires, it’s all about Napoleon and Josephine, but it’s quite rock ‘n’ roll, with cool T-shirts and jewellery. And Studio Tomasi is a gallery full of old photos of Corsica. Queen Elizabeth II came here in the 1950s and they have great photos of her arrival, with all the pomp and circumstance that accompanied it.

I always say that if you like a Saint-TropezIf you like Nikki Beach, don’t come to Corsica. It’s not very flashy, but it’s special. I’ve been lucky enough to travel all over the world and honestly, the best beaches are in Corsica.