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I was born in Istanbul and grew up in my grandparents’ house in Yeniköy, a neighborhood next to the Bosphorus. It’s a special place that has always had a mix of fishermen and business owners, and an ever-changing view of passing boats. Rumeli, the European part of Istanbul, is more reminiscent of Eastern Rome-Byzantium, while the other part, Anatolia, is considered the heart of Türkiye. They are both a mix of Christians, Muslims, Jews, Greeks, Armenians, Kurds and many others. There is incredible energy because the population is very young and diverse. That happiness is omnipresent. It may be hectic here, but the possibilities are endless.
For a city on water, boats are not used enough, which is a shame because the traffic is terrible. I try to travel by water taxi or private boat as much as possible. My perfect day consists of having tea and sesame simit in Rumelihisarı (an area full of cafes) and watching the boats on the Bosphorus. We are a coffee country, with so many artisan shops; I usually start with an American in Petra roasting either cup of joy.
Tarabya is another popular area. Its name is derived from the word “therapy”, which feels good as there is a relaxed atmosphere. One of my favorite fish restaurants is kıyı: In addition to excellent grilled turbot and bream, they have an incredible collection of old photographs. Bebek Kahve It is the ideal place to have a simit with cheese and eggs for breakfast; It is a large stage that has long been a place frequented by intellectuals and artists. For a livelier option, try the Bebek Rooftop Bar for cocktails.
Galata Port It is a huge commercial area made up of shops, two museums and The Istanbul peninsulaa hotel that I designed inside an old maritime terminal that is made up of three period buildings and one modern one. Located in Karaköy, this area was once a commercial center for Venetians and Genoese. On one side is the Golden Horn canal; on the other, wonderful old streets that vibrate with bars, restaurants and galleries of all kinds.
There are many places to stay here: the four seasons in Sultanahmet he is in a prison built by the Ottomans in 1918; Soho House Istanbul It is in the former American embassy; and the Splendid Palas Hotel is located on the largest of the Prince Islands, southeast of the city. For a more homey feel, there are Sumahan in the watera 13-room former Ottoman distillery in Çengelköy overlooking the European side of Istanbul.
There is also a wide range of culinary offerings, from Fatİh Tutak’s Galladaserving a mix of Turkish and Far Eastern cuisine on a quiet terrace, to established institutions such as pandeli at the Spice Bazaar that makes the best döner kebabs. Other local favorites include araka in Yeniköy, Karaköy Lokantası in Galata and Rumelihisarı İskele in Rumelihisarı, a spectacular restaurant because you sit on the water (the calamari is also excellent).
For a great night out I have to mention 29a bar and restaurant created by my husband and I (now owned by the d.ream group) that sits high above the city and offers views of the city and its spectacular bridges. You’ll often see more women than men out at night (many of them alone), which is a big change in the last 20 years or so.
When people think about shopping, the big bazaar It remains a true reflection of the city. It is always changing and sells the things that Turks really want: antique textiles, rugs, sofas and jewelry. It’s what inspired me when I was designing the interior spaces of The Peninsula. Another store worth a visit is Turkish stylewhich is filled with kilims, glassware and antique globes. You’ll probably need a guide to get there.
For smaller boutiques, I like it Haremlique for bedding and nishane for home aromas. Seer It’s also great for clothing and accessories, and is curated by Fatoş Yalın Arkun, a former fashion editor with great personal style. The selection mixes Yalin’s own designs with a collection of vintage jewelry.
Do not visit Istanbul between July and August because it is too hot. People swim in the Bosphorus from May to November, but I don’t really recommend it to visitors. Winter is serious, but also wonderful because there are much fewer people. In any given season, more than 15 million people live here collaboratively and productively. I hope that never changes.