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Letter from the HTSI editor: an ode to Debo


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Jo Ellison, HTSI editor
Jo Ellison, HTSI editor © Marili André

What is it about Chatsworth, the Duke of Devonshire’s ancestral seat in Derbyshire, that continues to inspire? Is it because of the size of the house, a large piece of neoclassical sandstone as was de rigueur in the 17th century? Or is his star turn at the center of so many adapted fictions: from bride head to Pride and prejudice? Perhaps the romance is fueled by its landscape, the majestic peaks on which it sits? Or maybe we just love the fact that the house remains inhabited: and we just love a castellana.

Of all the duchesses of the modern era, Deborah, Duchess of Devonshire, was the queen. “Debo” died in 2014, but her name is still evoked as the essence of country chic. One of the less famous Mitford sisters, she still embodied the little eccentricities that Anglophiles love: admired as much for her curious rosebud beauty and party dresses as for her love of chickens and her muddy rubber-boot common sense.

A dress from the Erdem SS24 collection using archival Chatsworth curtain material, photographed at Mercury Landing at Chatsworth House.
A dress from the Erdem SS24 collection using archival Chatsworth curtain material, photographed at Mercury Landing at Chatsworth House. © Erdem Moralıoğlu

Debo has become synonymous with a certain era of post-war determination. He lived through a period of great upheaval in which great changes occurred in the tectonic plates of society. She led the reinvention of Chatsworth as a public institution and at the same time settled there with her family. In doing so, she helped create an almost mythical narrative about country life that endures to this day. Erdem Moralıoğlu is one of many designers who were spellbound by Chatsworth and the effects of the late Duchess: his SS24 collection was liberally based on her wardrobe (and curtains), and he is hosting an exhibition this month. imaginary conversations, in which he has staged a series of “interactions” in his guest bedrooms. For HTSIhas made a portfolio of images to commemorate the event. As he tells Beatrice Hodgkin in an exclusive interviewthe house is not simply a historical monument but a “living, breathing thing.”

Nicolas Berggruen in the central hall of the Palazzo Malipiero in Venice
Nicolas Berggruen in the central hall of the Palazzo Malipiero in Venice © Paolo Prendin

As the new inhabitant of the Malipiero Palace in Venice, billionaire Nicolas Berggruen also breathes new life into a legendary house. Malipiero dates back to approximately the 11th century and was the home of Alvise Malipiero, mentor of Giacomo Casanova, who also lived in the palace in the 18th century until he was banished for being a very naughty child.

Berggruen’s investment is one third of a trio of buildings that make up a new Venetian centre. In recent years, the former playboy has poured his energies into the annual Berggruen Prize, a million-dollar prize for philosophy and culture intended to rival the Nobel Prize. He explains his grand plan for “global thinking” to James Reginato from his garden on the Grand Canal: it’s all part of an effort “to recognize that philosophical ideas are as important as physics or chemistry.” Whatever it is, it has meant that he now has an extremely tasty property portfolio. James meets this modern Medici to learn more about his thought leadership vision.

Left to right: Perfumer H Ink Handblown, £560 for 100ml EDP.  Dries Van Noten Fleur du Mal, £240 for 100ml EDP.  DS & Durga Gold Label Durga, $380 for 50ml EDP.  Fornasetti Frutto Proibito, £480 for 100ml EDP
Left to right: Perfumer H Ink Handblown, £560 for 100ml EDP. Dries Van Noten Fleur du Mal, £240 for 100ml EDP. DS & Durga Gold Label Durga, $380 for 50ml EDP. Fornasetti Frutto Proibito, £480 for 100ml EDP © Amy Currell

As many analysts – and consumers – have pointed out, prices have gotten out of hand. The other night I found a shoe in my closet: it came from a celebrated Marc Jacobs collection from 2004 and was still priced at £250, once considered the entry price for first-time luxury buyers. Nowadays, you can’t even find a fragrance for much less than £250. Rosanna Dodds has researched fashion for this new level of high-end perfumes. Why are they so expensive?

Finally, a confession. I’m not a big fan of ice cream. This is considered a sign of excessive stupidity by many, for whom ice cream is the ultimate treat. However, I am intrigued Ajesh Patalay’s adventures with homemade varieties as found in Terri Mercieca’s new ice cream book. So if you offered me a caramel ice cream with acacia seeds, I would gladly oblige.

@jellison22

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