Marc Farrell’s Insider’s Guide to Trinidad and Tobago

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I am a very, very proud son of the land: my dad is from Trinidad and my mom is from Tobago, so I am loyal to both islands in this southernmost republic of the Caribbean. I spent most of my childhood in Trinidad, but I went back and forth to Tobago – it’s a short flight (25 minutes) to get between the two islands. I grew up in a close-knit family (I’m one of seven, including my twin sister) surrounded by aunts, uncles, and cousins. I went to college in the US when I was 16, but I’m still rooted in the magic of my Trinidadian culture.

Geologically, Trinidad and Tobago is part of South America: we are right next to Venezuela and benefit from the same natural resources as them. As a result, we are a relatively wealthy country where industry has taken priority over tourism and that is why we are one of the least known Caribbean countries.

Coming to Trinidad is like coming to a friend’s house: you must break bread with us. There is a unique joie de vivre here that arises from our combined culture. The Spanish settled here in the 16th century; then the English brought slaves from West Africa and, later, from India. The result is a vibrant mix of Africans and Indians, as well as Syrians, Lebanese and French Creoles. We celebrate everything here, regardless of religion: Christmas, Diwali and Eid are equally celebrated. I’m always happy to light candles and honor someone else’s traditions.

Port of Spain, our capital, is where you will find hotels including The Brix, with its elegant pool, gym and rooftop bar. A more rustic authentic option is Asa Wright Nature Center, a bird sanctuary and eco-lodge with an incredible variety of wildlife. The same group is behind. Hotel Monte Plaisir on the north coast of the island, where the Grande Riviere River flows into the Caribbean Sea. It is an excellent place to see leatherback turtles.

Food is fundamental to life here and elegant is not always synonymous with better.

Food is central to life here: iconic dishes include “doubles” (fried flatbreads with chickpeas sold on the roads for breakfast, dinner and 2am snacks) and buljol, salted fish that is eaten in the oven, our version of fried bread. Fantasy is not always synonymous with better in Trinidad; exceptions to this are The Meena HouseIndian cuisine and Chaud Cafe and Wine BarThe excellent tuna tartare and the tamarind-glazed pork chop.

We are a fresh fish culture, plus crab, prawns and snails, and the grouper here is softer and more delicious than anywhere else. At Castara Beach in Tobago, you can buy barracuda, mahi-mahi and tuna fresh from the purse seine and grill them on the spot. For another discreet option, I like U-Pick Farm – a cool place in the northwest of Trinidad where you can pick your own vegetables and where they also serve lunch under a bamboo canopy.

Trinidad is known for its nightlife, specifically the energy of its celebrations. From Carnival in February or March to enjoying cocktails on the strip, also known as Ariapita Avenue, Trinidadians love to get together. People will ask, “Are you going to hang out on the avenue later?” which means “hang out without doing much.” Liming has its roots in World War II, when sailors hung out and sucked on limes to stave off scurvy. It can be done anywhere; The only rule is that you can’t file alone!

The natural beauty here (and our beaches in particular) is a major focus, and Pigeon Point and Store Bay in southwestern Tobago are beautiful. In Trinidad, I like Cien Pasos and Blanchisseuse. Other scenic highlights include Argyle Waterfall in Tobago for a hike, and Trinidad’s Queen’s Park Savannah, a huge green rotunda surrounded by the Magnificent Seven. These seven stately homes are excellent examples of French Colonial, Scottish Baronial, Indian Empire and Moorish Mediterranean architecture, with plenty of Caribbean flavor throughout.

There is magic here that is difficult to put into words. I think this is largely because people are very happy and creative. The country’s cultural mosaic has fostered a level of inventiveness, from our music (a mix of steel pan, calypso and soca, calypso’s higher-energy, rebellious cousin) to our cuisine. When we take this ingenuity to other parts of the world (and I think we will), watch out!