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Men, where to find the perfect t-shirt


Ten years ago I invested in 20 identical black James Perse T-shirts. They were made in the United States from Japanese Supima cotton, with a subtle and deliberate creasing at the neckline. The fit was perfect and flattering. Although the design has been discontinued, I still have half of them, and although they have held their color for years, I have overdyed them twice and the fabric has faded, which I love. I hold on to what remains of my collection.

Trunk Knit Doppiaa T-shirt, £170

Trunk Knit Doppiaa T-shirt, £170

My perfect t-shirt is black, but yours can be white. Both are fundamental to any wardrobe. Aside from the ability to maintain color and shape, we’re all looking for the same thing: a perfect, flattering fit. But it is not easy. Per se It’s an excellent brand, but I regularly find myself experimenting with others, a trial and often horror process. The double-layer semi-transparent cotton of certain rick owens The designs work well with my body, clinging to areas that have real muscle, but their looser cuts, like most oversized clothing in general, just emphasize that I’m overweight.

Many t-shirt cuts have unique selling points. construction workerThe at’s are made from soft cotton and have a rounded hem that looks great untucked. Merz B. Schwanen, a German heritage brand, highlights its Good Originals products so that garments are seamless except for triangle underarm insets, a game changer for fit. The label also categorizes some cuts by decade, and while the ’50s styles work better for my shape, the three-button Henley has the tightest bicep fit. However, you should allow for three to five percent shrinkage with Schwanen’s Good Originals garments, and they cut small to begin with, so choose large.

Truman Capote in New Orleans in 1947

Truman Capote in New Orleans in 1947 © Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson/Magnum Photos

Some online brands are offering impressive developments when it comes to fit. Tailor shop, Speak and son of a tailor in Copenhagen are all relatively new that offer algorithms to determine which setting is best for you. “We calculate a pattern for each individual customer based on the customer’s height, weight, age and shoe size, as well as the customer’s body type,” says Jess Fleischer, co-founder of Son of a Tailor. “We have created more than 150,000 unique sizes.”

Merz B Schwanen 1950s Ruffle T-shirt, €59.90

Merz B. Schwanen Loopwheeled 50s t-shirt, €59.90

Son of a Tailor Supima Cotton T-Shirt, £55

son of a tailor Supima cotton T-shirt, €55

James Perse Combed Cotton Jersey T-shirt, £70, mrporter.com

James Perse Combed Cotton Jersey T-shirt, £70, mrporter.com

Spoke cotton T-shirt, €40

Speak cotton t-shirt, €40

Your choice has a lot to do with the shirt you are wearing, as well as your figure. Own brand t-shirts in Trunk They have a great fit, with a bicep width that feels just right (not too tight, not too loose), but Trunk founder Mats Klingberg wears different sizes depending on the occasion and style. “I wear an M for a dressier look under a tighter shirt, sweater or jacket,” he says, “and an L for a more casual look with chinos or baggy shorts.”

Classic Sunspel Supima Cotton T-shirt, €85

Classic Sunspel Supima Cotton T-shirt, €85

Asket Cotton The T-shirt, £35

order cotton The T-shirt, £35

Applied Art Forms LM1-1 Knit T-shirt, €110

Applied art forms Knitted T-shirt LM1-1, €110

sun spell CEO Nicholas Brooke also changes his style depending on the outfit: “I wear our Riviera midweight jersey with a suit, because it has a flat collar, so it’s classy,” he says. “Our classic t-shirt has a slim fit and underwear-style neckline because that’s what it was originally intended to be. But aside, it’s about the fabric. We use Supima cotton from a farm in California that has been double twisted and passed over a flame to remove any lint and provide longevity. Then there are the most luxurious, in Sea-Island cotton from a farm in Jamaica, spun in Switzerland. The fiber length is about 5 cm, which is tall and rare, making it soft and durable.”

Other contenders for best jersey include ORDER – the brand says it spent a “disproportionate” amount of time developing its permanent core collection and continues to make minor adjustments based on customer feedback – and Guy Berryman’s Applied art forms. “If the shoulder seam is in the wrong place, the garment will pull forward or backward, making the neck uncomfortable,” Berryman says of the engineering involved in creating the perfect jersey. He has worked on every millimeter: “The length of the arm should not be too short, I prefer a sleeve that comes closer to the elbow, rather than dividing the biceps in two. We have a 1.5 inch hem at the arms and waist which adds a sort of substantial nature. Although it is the simplest piece of clothing, a T-shirt contains a hidden series of mathematical ratios and proportions that can result in success or failure.


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