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This article is part of a new guide to venice by FT Globetrotter
As the young wife of Prince Egon von Furstenberg, I first discovered the glamorous side of Venice through its palaces, balls and its famous film festival. It seemed like a fairy tale. Over the decades, I have returned to Venice every year to always discover something new, and now I call it my home.
For me, La Serenissima Venezia is a woman, a seductive muse, a brave warrior, a scientist and a master of diplomacy and sea power. But she is also a businesswoman. Venice is where commerce meets art; the definitive caravanserai.
Its long life has spanned 1,600 years. Born as a refugee and expelled from the mainland by the Huns, she created a magical environment in the lagoon between islands and canals, building bridges and palaces, turning it all into a magnificent city. The Republic of Venice existed for a millennium and was a major power during the Middle Ages and Renaissance.
Mass tourism and climatic conditions have many times threatened its survival but it is still here, splendid and radiant.
There is nothing better than arriving in Venice and seeing it emerge from the sea in all its splendor. From there, take my advice and visit some of my favorite places. I like to start with a morning walk to have the city to myself and see how the light changes throughout the day, until the most splendid sunset casts its particular pink tone. Try not to set a demanding schedule. Instead, walk, get lost, discover your favorite places and enjoy it all!
Fortuny + Chahán
Fondamenta San Biagio, 30133 Venice
The original Fortuny factory, where the most beautiful fabrics are still made, was built on the grounds of a former convent in the Giudecca, and the impressive private garden is one of the largest in Venice. Next door is Fortuny + Chahan, a townhouse that was recently redesigned by interior designer Chahan Minassian for the Biennale and is open to the public by appointment. He Fortuny Museum It is separate, in San Marco, and must be seen too. Website; Instructions
Rizzardini
Campiello dei Meloni 1415, 30125 Venice
This little gem of a pastry is the perfect place to start your day in Venice. Order a coffee and a croissant and stay at the counter. Instructions
Academy Gallery
Calle della Carità, 1050, 30123 Venice
A wonderful museum with masterpieces of Venetian painting from the 14th to the 19th century. It also has the best bookstore. It is located in Dorsoduro, which is my neighborhood. Just around the corner is my favorite place to walk in the evenings, along the Zattere, where you will see the most incredible sunsets. Website; Instructions
Doge’s Palace
Piazza San Marco, 30124 Venice
A visit to San Marco and the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) is not to be missed. A spectacular example of Gothic architecture, it was the residence of the Doge at the height of the Republic and is a masterclass in Venetian history. You can visit not only the Doge’s apartments and the former seat of government, but also his courts and prisons and, of course, the wonderful Golden Staircase. Website; Instructions
palwer
Salizada San Samuele 3151, 30124 Venice
Alessandro Palwer is a jewelry designer based in Venice. Trained as a sculptor, he creates bold pieces that stand the test of time. Their shop is tucked away on a relatively quiet street in San Marco. Website; Instructions
Missiaglia 1846
Dorsoduro 586, 30126 Venice
Missiaglia 1846, one of the oldest family businesses in Europe, is a jewelry store whose artisans are committed to the ancient customs of Venice and the highest craftsmanship. Their cutlery collection is one of a kind – I have their pepper mill and artichoke salt shaker, a lovely pair and the perfect gift for a gracious host. Website; Instructions
Borges Labyrinth
All the great painters have loved Venice and all the great writers have loved Venice, including Jorge Luis Borges. For the 25th anniversary of his death, the Giorgio Cini Foundation on the island of San Giorgio Maggiore created the most amazing labyrinth with more than 3,000 boxwood plants. The result is a charming excuse to get lost. Website; Instructions
Quadri
Piazza San Marco 123, 30124 Venice
You’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time at this stunning restaurant on Piazza San Marco, in a building once occupied by the Venetian government. In 2018, Philippe Starck and the Alajmo brothers reinvented it, but it remains a classic beauty. The menu is full of fresh seafood and modern interpretations of traditional favorites. Website; Instructions
Hostaria Bacanera
Campiello de la Cason 4506, 30121 Venice
This traditional osteria in Cannaregio is charming and the food is delicious – mainly fish and fresh vegetables from the market, so the menu is always changing. It is the perfect place to end a spectacular day in Venice. Also in Cannaregio you will find the Jewish ghetto with its famous Campo del Ghetto Novo. Website; Instructions
Lagoon B
Dorsoduro 3276, 30123 Venice
In this small shop in Dorsoduro, the late glass designer Marie Brandolini achieved a contemporary twist on traditional Murano glass. It is now directed by his son Marcantonio. [whose father was a cousin of Prince Egon von Furstenberg]. The pieces are fun but sophisticated. Website; Instructions
Angelo Orsoni Color Library
Calle dei Vedei 1045A, 30121 Venice
Orsoni was a master of crystal and painted glass who founded Fornace Orsoni in 1888. After presenting his large collection of enameled and gilded mosaics in Paris, he became famous for sourcing large-scale works of art throughout Europe. The Color Library tells the story of the family, the oven and more than 3,500 shades of color. It’s fascinating. You must first become a member of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection to take a guided tour. Website; Instructions
Grimani Palace and Ca’ d’Oro Museums
Rugagiuffa 4858, 30122 Venice and Calle Ca’ d’Oro 3934, 30121 Venice
Both belong to the Italian Ministry of Culture: the first is famous for Giovanni Grimani collection of classical sculptures and the second for the surprising Gothic façade and paintings such as “Saint Sebastian” by Mantegna. He Venetian Heritage Foundation supports both museums and I am proud to be the international ambassador for this wonderful organization. Grimani Palace Museum: Website; Instructions. Ca’d’Oro: Website; Instructions
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