The body is Ooni’s distinctive dark gray tortoise shape, made from stainless steel in a powder-coated carbon steel casing which, again, remarkably insulates it. I can rest my hand on top of the oven while it’s running at full power and it barely feels hot. The door is made of triple-pane insulated borosilicate glass that seems designed to invoke pointed comparisons to the Pizzaiolo, whose door is simply double pane. It can also heat up to 850 degrees Fahrenheit (Pizzaiolo can only go up to 750 degrees, you losers!).
The door has three knobs. Unfortunately, it took me a little longer to figure out these knobs than Pizzaiolo’s, which come with convenient presets for different types of pizza. The one on the far left is a timer, the one in the middle is temperature, and the one on the far right is what Ooni calls a Boost mode, which allows you to transfer heat back and forth between the top and bottom heating elements. for different purposes.
If you like your cheese to be slightly browned, you can turn up the heat; If you’ve been baking a lot of pizzas, opening the door wide and moving the dough in and out quickly, you can keep turning the dial to transfer heat back to the bottom. It’s a simple function, but the symbols on the dial are strangely dark.
Hot Hot Heat
It’s crazy how fast the oven preheats. I will caveat here that I recommend waiting a full hour for the stone to heat up completely, which will reduce the chance of the pizza dough instantly cooling the cooktop and clogging. But the first time I used the oven, I turned it on to 650 degrees (what Ooni recommends for a “New York-style” pizza) and went inside to get the ingredients out of the fridge. When I came back out 13 minutes later, it was done. This is less time than it takes my conventional indoor oven to reach 400 degrees.
The main difference between the Pizzaiolo and the Volt 12 is philosophical. The Volt’s specs are objectively better than the Pizzaiolo’s, but more than that, the Pizzaiolo lives exclusively indoors and has presets. while does It has a manual mode that lets you play pizza baker and move around the oven, eagerly turning the pie yourself so that you brown the crusts perfectly all over, there really isn’t a need. It feels like a performance. When I finished my trial period with Pizzaiolo, I just made dough, dialed a preset, and left. It is the ideal oven if you are a busy parent working with small children.
The Volt 12 has an essentials booklet that lets you choose what style of pizza you want and hook up the timer and temperature settings. It’s not that hard, and it gives the oven a bit more versatility. For example, I just learned what grandma style pizza it is, unlike the Detroit style (someone will certainly correct me, but as I understand it, the granny style is thinner).
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