Pavillon Faubourg Saint-Germain: a love letter to literary Paris

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This article is part of FT Globetrotter Paris guide

Some visitors to the French capital, with their expectations so high, develop a condition known as “Paris Syndrome”: a crushing disappointment when the city turns out to be more reality than Instagram. The cure is located in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, the pretty postcard-perfect Left Bank neighborhood in the heart of literary Paris. The Pavillon Faubourg Saint-Germain, a beautiful hotel just around the corner from the area’s famous cafes, Les Deux Magots and Café de Flore, is where the sick should stay.

The hotel opened last year after an extensive renovation (tenderly tying together three 17th-century listed buildings), a change of ownership and a total refurbishment. Designer Didier Benderli has cleverly maintained the individual character of each structure as he creates a modern, sophisticated and cohesive offering, from its cozy library to its Impressionist-inspired lounge with fireplace and throughout the 47 rooms and suites.

The accommodations are generously sized, comfortable and well-equipped, with parquet floors, lots of light and high ceilings. The custom designed furnishings are beautifully made; I often found myself admiring the wooden chairs and cabinets in the bedrooms and bathrooms, and the intricate details in the woodwork. The bedding is thick and luxurious, there are thousands of pillows, and I liked the local brand Codage toiletries so much that I took home leftovers.

Drawing visitors and locals alike is the haute bistronomy (raised brasserie plates with Michelin-worthy technique) at the hotel’s restaurant. the parisiansnamed in honor of Dubliners by James Joyce, who lived at the hotel’s address in the early 1920s. Under the supervision of chef Thibault Sombardier, the menu is not only delicious, but its nostalgic notes will also put a smile on your face. The vol-au-vent, a fish cake with shrimp, mussels, and monkfish wrapped in puff pastry, was deliciously 1970s, yet refined, comforting, and oh-so-satisfying.

Theatrical cocktails are a blast at the adjoining James Joyce Bar, an intimate wood-paneled space with creative mixology inspired by the head bartender’s travels, like fresh, herbal Thai made with peanut butter-infused vodka, pineapple, coriander syrup, lime and kaffir lime leaf.

Below deck, the basement housed a legendary cabaret where singer-songwriter and poet Léo Ferré began his career; today’s guests descend class (numbered) stone steps to find a well-equipped gym, spa and plunge pool, the construction of which required carefully excavating 13 tons of rock. This was an unexpected gift, especially for a Parisian hotel of this size. The relaxing massage was truly one of the most relaxing I have ever experienced.

• Good for: Chic modern luxury in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, once a center for 19th and 20th century artists, writers and philosophers.

• Not so good for: hipster

• For your information: It’s impossible to walk more than a minute in Saint-Germain-des-Prés without stumbling across a tempting patisserie or chocolatier.

• Bedrooms: 47 rooms including 10 suites

• Double: From €350

• Website; Addresses

Niki Blasina was a guest of the Pavillon Faubourg Saint-Germain.

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