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Ready for short shorts, guys?


Dedicated readers will remember that this time, two years ago, I pleaded with my fellow men to “release the knee” and try tailored shorts. Now I’m back, and things are getting positively spicy. With the smart shorts mastered, it’s time to go further and “free the thigh” if you dare.

Shorts have shamelessly returned to men’s fashion. Whether printed on Thom Brownewide-legged and with folds in Hermes or checkered and sporty in Dior, the SS23 runways showed a lot of upper leg. The same applies to swim shorts. A stalwart of British beachwear, Orlebar Brown launched in 2007 with a classic look in four different lengths, the shortest of which, the Jumper and the Setter, both cut to mid-thigh. “They are increasing in popularity,” says founder Adam Brown. “People like a shorter length for an occasion that’s a little more dressy, when they’re pairing swim shorts with shirts, or just looking to show off a little more leg.”

Vilebrequin x Deux Femmes Noires Recycled Polyamide Swim Shorts, £230

Vilebrequin x Deux Femmes Noires Recycled Polyamide Swim Shorts, £230

French brand Vilebrequin has always championed shorter styles, tied to its origins in St Tropez in the 1970s. “The inspiration came from surfers,” says CEO Roland Herlory. “The founder of Vilebrequin created a European style; the shorts were not long and were not used to protect the legs. They were designed to be comfortable and seductive.”

The classic Vilebrequin short The trunks are faithful to the proportions of the retro originals. I have two pairs in block tones, which are less flashy than the busy prints. While they are slightly shorter, they are not for showmen; They’re simply flattering, well-cut shorts that look dressier than your old-fashioned boxer briefs.

AC/DC in Ipanema, Brazil, in 1985
AC/DC in Ipanema, Brazil, in 1985 © Getty Images

“Your swim shorts say a lot about who you are,” adds Herlory. “They are the most liberating and the best for tanning, but I think it says a lot about the confidence of a man who chooses to wear a shorter style.”

It’s all very well advocating shorter shorts for the beach and pool, but can the same logic apply around town? Contemporary Australian label Haulier launched in 2020 with its cult-favorite utility bags, but has since expanded into a full offering, stealing the show at Australian Fashion Week this year. For the founder and creative director Jeremy Hershan, the representative of the brand two types of shortsNodding to classic sailing and athletic styles, they’re easy to style when the sun’s out.

“Haulier’s wardrobe draws on sportswear from decades past, as well as military, work, and tailoring influences,” says Hershan. “I love the idea of ​​mixing traditional dress codes for an irreverent result. The Harmony Sailing and Monaco Track Shorts embody the brand’s free-roaming spirit. It’s better to wear them short and mix them with the aforementioned influences.” For SS23, Haulier’s collection pairs athletic shorts with classic tees and preppy blazers, fisherman sandals and bright-striped denim shirts. The look is cheerful and eclectic, and that’s the point.

Haulier Harmony Velvet Sailing Shorts, £130

Carrier Harmony velvet sailing shorts, £130

Orlebar Brown Recycled Nylon Springer Swim Shorts, £195

brown orlebar recycled nylon Springer swim shorts, £195

Dior linen-blend shorts, £1,550

Dior linen blend shorts, £1,550

Community Clothing Pleated Cotton Shorts, £70

community clothing pleated cotton shorts, £70

“Growing up in Australia, shorts are second nature,” adds Hershan. “They recall the images of Australian photographer Rennie Ellis and have been championed by sportsmen and rock stars alike.” She also references a favorite photo of AC/DC lounging on tour in Rio de Janeiro in 1985. “Confidence is sexy and shorts are the epitome of it. Try them at home, try them for sports, try them poolside, and for the occasional errand. Before you know it, you’ll be a convert.”

Of course, there are limits. Patrick Grant, designer and creative director of community clothing, makes and wears “work shorts” that are paired at mid-thigh length with military-inspired patch front pockets, but you still don’t see them in the office. “In that context he still feels anathema,” she says.

Dior Textured Jersey Sport Shorts, £890

Dior Textured Jersey Sport Shorts, £890

Hermès Technical Panama Canvas Bermuda Shorts, £700

Hermès Technical Panama Canvas Bermuda Shorts, £700

“But there are a lot of guys who are happy to show off their physique in a little more gritty way than it has been for the last 15 or 20 years. In my life of being interested in clothes, I have seen shorts go from very short to very long and back to very short again. Tailored shorts that fall two to three inches above the knee are perfect for Saturday shopping. Keep your top loose and wear a long-sleeved shirt or crew neck, just so you’re not completely naked.”

While wearing above-the-knee styles can be daunting, Brown makes a compelling case for elevating hemlines. “There are many subtle things that make men look and feel good,” he says. “A shorter style can make the leg look longer, with more shape. It’s a simple change that many will be pleasantly surprised by.” They might take a little getting used to at first, but when the heat is on, it pays to get smaller.


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