Summer shirts for the iron-averse.

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Men’s linen shirts have an unfair reputation for being scruffy. Sure, linen is a fabric that inevitably wrinkles, but that’s part of its charm. Cool and comfortable, a well-worn linen shirt in the height of summer is a thing of simple beauty. There’s no right or wrong here, but the key to one that flatters is finding a style that feels good to wear. Loose or slim fit, open neck or unstructured, striped or solid – the choice is yours.

From his workshop on London’s Chiltern Street, shirtmaker and founder of from jakeJake Wigham cuts modern shirts that subtly reference mid-century style. In the summer, his favorite fabrics are cotton and linen blends which are great to wear. He cuts them into classic button down Popover shirts or his cult favorite leisure shirts, which have a generous fit and feature half-length sleeves, patch and flap chest pockets and Cuban collars. “You want something that doesn’t stick to you; something that’s textured and a bit drapey,” Wigham says.

“I often tell many of my clients to measure up in the summer to give them even more breathing room,” she adds. “I like to wear my leisure shirts with a simple vest or white t-shirt underneath with high-waisted pants or shorts. Wear the shirt open like a jacket or buttoned up and tucked in, it’s easy.”

That’s not to say that a linen shirt can’t be stylish when you need it to. Designer luca faloni, who is known for his beautiful made in Italy shirts, creates linen shirts that are suitable for dressing up. “We like to keep it classy with the ‘paramount,’ our signature one-piece collar, and no pockets, making the design too casual,” he says. “We also prefer a tighter fit over most linen shirts.”

The paramount is a clever creation. Unlike a conventional shirt, which is made with a neckband into which a collar is sewn, folded, and pressed, a one-piece collar is cut as one seamless piece and attached directly to the body of the shirt. Shirt. This gives the collar a fuller roll and when worn under a jacket keeps a bit more tension on the collar so it sits wide open. You can’t wear a tie with a one-piece collar, but in a linen climate why would you?

Loose or slim fit, open neck or unstructured, striped or solid – the choice is yours

I wear shirts like these in classic colors (navy, sky blue, cream, taupe) tucked into dark pleated Irish linen trousers during the week, possibly with an unstructured blazer or overshirt over it. On weekends, I swap them out for pastel colors like mint or pale yellow, which are worn unbuttoned with tailored shorts and sandals. This look easily translates to vacations abroad, too (see Dickie Greenleaf at The talented Mr. Ripley either call me by your name for the linen shirt inspiration). All you need to finish off is a cool pair of sunglasses and a duffel bag.

While Luca Faloni’s slim fit is flattering, you don’t need to limit yourself to a slim-fit linen shirt to look sharp. brioni doing luxe-looking silk-blend iterations, while in London, Jermyn Street shirtmakers have also had fun with linen, playing with colour, cut and volume. In pink thomas, designer Takashi Sugioka has just created a capsule of pure linen resort shirts with a casual, boxy fit. Available in a range of block colors and graphic prints, the collection is reminiscent of classic 1950s cottage shirts and, says Sugioka, “represents a gentleman abroad, or at least indicates he’s out of the office.” .

further down the street, New and LingwoodTom Leeper’s creative director prefers laid-back linen shirts with a spread or neckband collar this time of year, and the brand often pairs them with its statement smocks as “work from home” or “walking around the country” shirts. neighborhood”. “Dustier colors have been very popular this season,” says Leeper. “We have linen shirts in soft pink, duck egg blue and yellow. They are easy to use and tend to be more forgiving with different skin tones.” Wearing them with a silk robe is one thing, but they’re also stylish enough to venture in and out of. “Put on a pair of lightweight tailored pants and you’re good to go,” adds Leeper.

Regardless of the shirts you choose, the most important thing is to embrace the breeze of linen. Like the inevitability of death and taxes, wrinkling of linen is simply a fact of life. Consider it a rare treat to wear a shirt that doesn’t need to be spotless to look sharp. When in doubt, look to Alain Delon at purple noonand remember to own the folds.