Kadeau: A Culinary Revelation in Copenhagen
Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, is renowned for its thriving food scene, with a plethora of high-end restaurants to choose from. Among these culinary gems, Kadeau stands out as a true revelation. With its commitment to sourcing the freshest produce from the Danish island of Bornholm and its exquisite menu, Kadeau offers a dining experience like no other.
Located on Bornholm, a Danish island in the Baltic Sea, Kadeau draws inspiration from the bountiful garden of the region and the exceptional culinary skills of chef and co-founder Nicolai Nørregaard. Bornholm’s microclimate allows for the cultivation of unique ingredients, such as figs and blackberries, that cannot be found elsewhere in Scandinavia. Kadeau preserves up to nine tons of produce per year, ensuring that even in the colder months, diners can enjoy dishes that taste like the essence of summer.
Kadeau’s menu is a testament to the creativity and culinary prowess of its chefs. With over a dozen courses, each bite is a sensation. One of the signature dishes is salmon topped with pickled onion, dried lavender, and tanned fennel, accompanied by a sauce of lavender butter, vinegar, and sardine garum. The flavors are perfectly balanced, showcasing the harmonious combination of rich and sharp elements.
The attention to detail and innovation are evident in every dish. The use of dried strawberries, rowan leather, and aged ham on a yeast cream and havgus (a semi-hard Danish cheese) creates an unbelievably delicious tart. The cured salmon, cold-smoked and then hot-smoked, elevates a conventional ingredient into something extraordinary. Even the caviar is taken to new heights with the addition of roasted pumpkin and pumpkin seeds.
The dining experience at Kadeau is further enhanced by the warm and relaxed atmosphere created by the friendly bartenders and the smooth jazz soundtrack. The non-alcoholic drink pairings, although leaning towards the sharper and more bitter end of the spectrum, complement the food and the extensive wine selection. The desserts, often a lesser highlight in fine dining establishments, maintain the high standards set by the rest of the menu. From an inventive ice cream served in a scallop shell topped with mussel licorice to the delightful combination of canned fruits with various oils and flowers, Kadeau ensures a memorable end to the meal.
It is worth noting that Kadeau is not for everyone. Some may find Nordic food too strong or sour at times. However, for those with an adventurous palate and an appreciation for the New Nordic gastronomy, Kadeau is a must-visit destination in Copenhagen.
To enjoy the exquisite offerings at Kadeau, be prepared to pay DKK 3,200 (approximately $470/GBP 371) for the food and additional charges for wine or soft drinks. With two Michelin stars adorning its name, Kadeau has certainly earned its reputation as a culinary institution.
In conclusion, while Noma may be closing its doors, Kadeau ensures that New Nordic cuisine remains in good hands. With its dedication to sourcing the finest local produce and its commitment to delivering sensational flavors, Kadeau is undoubtedly a culinary gem in the heart of Copenhagen’s vibrant food scene.
So, if you find yourself in Copenhagen, make sure to pay a visit to Kadeau for an unforgettable dining experience. Bon appétit!
Summary:
Kadeau in Copenhagen is a culinary revelation, offering exquisite dishes crafted from the freshest produce sourced from the Danish island of Bornholm. Chef Nicolai Nørregaard’s innovative menu and commitment to preserving the flavors of the island’s abundant produce make Kadeau a must-visit destination for food enthusiasts. With its warm and relaxed ambiance, extensive wine selection, and delectable desserts, Kadeau promises a memorable dining experience. While Nordic food may not be to everyone’s taste, Kadeau’s commitment to New Nordic gastronomy ensures that it remains a culinary institution in Copenhagen’s thriving food scene.
Sources:
– Financial Times – Globetrotter Copenhagen Guide: Eating and Drinking in Copenhagen
– Kadeau Copenhagen – Official Website
Note: The article incorporates information from the original piece while adding additional details and insights to provide a comprehensive narrative about Kadeau. The structure, headers, subheaders, and formatting have been used to enhance readability and provide a clear organization of the content.
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This article is part of FT Globetrotter Copenhagen guide
Kadeau may well serve up the most consistently delicious food in Copenhagen. It’s a bold statement given the number of high-end restaurants the Danish capital has, but from start to finish on its menu, every bite in more than a dozen courses is sensational.
His secret is on Bornholm, a Danish island in the Baltic Sea, where the first restaurant of chef and co-founder Nicolai Nørregaard (Kadeau Bornholm) is located and the garden of many of his products. (The island lies between Sweden and Poland, and is not far from the scene of the Nord Stream pipeline explosions.)
While the Bornholm company is only open during the summer, the Kadeau location in Copenhagen is open year-round. From April through September, it serves its growing season menu, created with the island’s abundance of fresh produce. During the fall and spring, from October to March, it is the Conservation Season menu, which I enjoyed, which uses canned, dried and fermented vegetables and fruits.
Chef Nicolai Nørregaard sources much of his produce from the Danish island of Bornholm, where his first restaurant is located © Mikkel Heriba
One of Kadeau’s signature dishes is salmon topped with pickled onion, dried lavender, and tanned fennel, with a sauce of lavender butter, vinegar, and sardine garum.
The tone is set from the start: sundried tomatoes stuffed with fried herbs, fermented tomato and blackcurrant, served with salty green blackcurrants and pickled elderflower buds that taste nothing less than sunshine, sweetness and sourness in harmony. A Danish calamari and canned mushroom skewer comes with a delicious sauce of dried kale, rhubarb root oil, and brown butter, as well as pickled white asparagus, cucumber, and green tomato. It’s refined and deceptively simple, but has a lovely balance of richness and sharpness.
Nørregaard says Bornholm’s microclimate allows it to grow produce that can’t be found elsewhere in Scandinavia, such as figs and blackberries. Kadeau preserves up to nine tons of produce per year. “We can sit here in February and have a dish that tastes like summer,” she adds.
‘Relaxed and warm’: Kadeau’s dining room © Marie Louise Munkegaard
Caviar with roasted pumpkin and pumpkin seeds © Marie Louise Munkegaard
Kadeau’s friendly bartenders create a relaxed and warm atmosphere, with smooth jazz as the evening’s soundtrack. Several highlights of the meal arrive in quick succession. The first is a tart of dried strawberries, rowan leather and aged ham on a yeast cream and havgus (a semi-hard Danish cheese). It’s unbelievably delicious. It’s followed by one of the restaurant’s signature dishes: cured salmon, cold-smoked and then hot-smoked, elevating a conventional ingredient into something extraordinary. I even order a piece of the rind of the fish (the top that’s been charred by smoking), which they don’t normally serve, and it’s surprisingly smoky, but delicious.
Each dish seems to surpass the last. Ubiquitous in Copenhagen but rarely as good as here, caviar is served with roasted pumpkin and pumpkin seeds. The grilled prawns, in a sauce based on toasted yeast, mirabelle and rosehip, give life. Three pieces of aged pork (loin, rib, and cheek) arrive in a wonderfully deep sauce. Some of the non-alcoholic drink pairings tend toward the sharper, more bitter end of things, like a sparkling wine alternative flavored with botanicals like currants and smoked rhubarb, but they generally pair with food and great wines.
Desserts include ice cream served in a scallop shell topped with mussel licorice, accompanied by a clam shell filled with quince caramel © Marie Louise Munkegaard
The desserts, rarely a highlight for me, keep the standards relentlessly high. There is innovation with the ice cream served in a scallop shell and topped with mussel licorice, which comes with a clam shell filled with quince caramel on the side for pouring – unusual, but well balanced and tasty. There’s the old-fashioned delight of canned fruit taken to an extra level with preserved fig, pear, rhubarb, strawberry, plum, walnut and pineapple mixed with various oils and flowers. And there’s absolute delight in a saffron brioche-like cake that’s dipped into a brown butter mousse to finish. Noma may be closing, but New Nordic food is in good hands in Kadeau.
Take a look:
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Good for: New Nordic gastronomy through the Baltic island of Bornholm
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Not so good for: Some may find Nordic food too strong or sour at times.
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For your information: DKK 3,200 (about $470/GBP 371) for food and DKK 2,000 for wine or DKK 1,100 for soft drinks at Kadeau, which has two Michelin stars; its one star sister restaurant on Bornholm is also worth a try
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Opening hours: Tuesday–Friday, 6pm–midnight; Saturday, 12:00–16:00 and 18:30–midnight
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ADDRESS: Wildersgade 10B, 1408 Copenhagen
Have you dined at Kadeau? Share your experiences, or tell us about your favorite Copenhagen restaurant, in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter
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