The pole that conquered the world

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The Lacosteiros are a subcultural group based on the outskirts of São Paulo, Brazil who are obsessed with the French clothing brand Lacoste. In a move reminiscent of the Brooklyn Lo Lifes of the 1980s and 1990s, united by their crush on Ralph Lauren Polo, the Lacosteiro document themselves clad head-to-toe in the label, inspired by the local funk MCs who wear it. and the exoticism associated with a European house on South American soil. Though they wear all of Lacoste’s gear, including caps, hoodies, and sneakers, the classic polo shirt is the most ubiquitous, and the brand’s crocodile logo is a nod to ambitious wealth.

In the 90 years since its inception, polo has represented many different things to many different people. For René Lacoste, the Grand Slam-winning tennis player who conceived the sporty style, it was liberating; He felt that the uniform historically worn on the court—a button-down shirt, tie, and flannel pants—inhibited his play, so he invented a lightweight cotton petit piqué alternative, with short sleeves and a half placket down the front to allow greater comfort. movement. In reference to his on-court nickname, “El Cocodrilo,” he sewed a small green reptile onto the front, giving rise to both the brand lacoste and logo clothing.

The group is dressed from head to toe in Lacoste

Other labels have since popularized similar styles. british tennis player Fred Perry, who won Wimbledon three times, launched his version in 1952 with a laurel wreath as a signifier. This was co-opted by various counter-culture groups in the UK: the mods in the ’60s, the skinheads in the ’70s, and the Britpop fans in the ’90s, embodying rebellion and working-class ethos. For ralph laurenLaunching his signature style in 1972, the polo shirt was the essence of the American WASP, worn by Hamptonites and frat boys as a symbol of wealth.

The movement, £120

Tennis, £84

Golf, £88

The Paris, £120

Today, the polo shirt belongs to a massive audience: Lacoste has sold more than five million units of its classic style, the L.12.12, globally by 2022. product for every generation,” says Lacoste Deputy CEO Catherine Spindler .

To mark the anniversary of the polo shirt, Lacoste has launched an updated collection of five styles to represent the different needs of its wearers: the Paris, which has a slim fit; the Movement, made with organic cotton and recycled polyester; two sports-focused styles, Tennis and Golf; and L.12.12 in seasonal colors. These take pride of place in the new Lacoste flagship in London, which opened last month and is designed to celebrate how the brand is worn around the world.

“What’s really impressive is seeing how so many different cultures and communities still embrace polo in different ways,” adds Spindler. From tennis players to inner-city workers to São Paulo youth, polo, even after nine decades, continues to be reinterpreted and reinvented.