Three Serene Winter Getaways in the Hudson Valley

This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to New York

When it comes to defining exactly what is In the Hudson Valley, there is plenty of room for debate. Three million acres of varied terrain—hills, quaint towns, and small towns—stretch from the confluence of the Mohawk and Hudson Rivers in northern Albany County to Westchester County, also known as the New York City suburbs. York. It is made up of 10 diverse counties divided by regions: Lower Hudson, Mid Hudson and Upper Hudson. Most people tend to associate bucolic weekend getaways and cultural activities with the midsection, but let’s just say the territory is loosely defined.

“The thing about the Hudson Valley is its vastness,” explains Tarajia Morrell, lifelong resident and food writer. “Hidden among its hills and hollows are towns, each with a different character. If you tour just one county, you’ll have a whole new sense of discovery. What they have in common is the jungle beauty found between the cities. There really is something for everyone here.”

So whether you’re looking for snowshoeing, craft cocktails by a roaring fire, or stately home museums rich in American history, there are endless options, and they’re all just two hours from downtown Manhattan.

Dutchess County

From your base in the charming Troutbeck — a former 18th-century inn and estate that hosted writers like Ralph Waldo Emerson and Henry David Thoreau and politicians like Theodore Roosevelt — in Amenia, the towns of Wassaic, Millbrook and Millerton are just a 10- to 20-minute drive away. This recently renovated boutique hotel has 37 rooms and suites, in all configurations, designed by designer Alexandra Champalimaud and Scandinavian intellectual reads, right down to its cozy libraries and pleasant, dimly lit bar. The halls are fully decorated for the holidays with festive arbors of fir trees, amaryllis and poinsettias, setting the stage for gingerbread house making, a Festival of the Seven Fishes-inspired dinner, and New Year’s Eve festivities for all. ages.

This is firm foodie territory, so start your day with cardamom buns and freshly baked croissants from Vitsky Bakery in nearby Wassaic before entering the Wassaico Projecta nonprofit, artist-run gallery and educational center housed in a seven-story former mill. a visit to Tenmile DistilleryMakers of small-batch whiskey, gin and vodka, it’s worth the detour for great spirits and a farm-to-table meal at Westerly Canteen served in the idyllic apple orchard in the fall.

Further along, the small town of Millbrook is home to Innisfreea spectacular, rolling garden built between 1930 and 1960 that was inspired by the scroll paintings of 8th-century Chinese poet and artist Wang Wei. Regardless of the season, the series of swamps, berms and rock terraces form a stunning landscape.

Just down the street (everything is within 20 minutes of everything else here) is Millerton, an essentially quaint town with a decidedly hipster Brooklyn vibe. Get expensive Nordic sweaters and perfect Levi’s at Westerlind or cross Main Street to the newly opened The Dutch trading company – a tasteful selection of French soaps, candles, linens and more. If hunger strikes, I retro it Oakhurst Restaurant makes a good burger or unexpectedly delicious pho. Movie buffs will love it the movie theaterscreening independent and arthouse films, as well as live performances from the Metropolitan Opera.

End any day in Stisse Housea former inn and tavern in nearby Pine Plains that dates back to 1782. Chef-owner Clare de Boer, an alum of River Cafe in London and co-owner of King’s in New York, offers simple, fresh dishes including charcoal roast, scallops with green garlic butter and suckling pig with roasted peaches from nearby Sugar Hill Farm.

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Rhinebeck and Tivoli

For a wide variety of hotels, restaurants, and historical sites, not to mention ease of access via Amtrak, you can’t beat the town of Rhinebeck. At the city’s main intersection (it’s a one-light affair) is the Beekman Arms inn, with its white stone façade and black shutters, the same as it has been since its founding in 1766. Nearby, the French style Mirbeau Inn & Spa It is ideal for hot stone massages and cutting-edge cuisine. A new player is C Cassiscreators of a “not too sweet and slightly fermented” blackcurrant liqueur that is best savored in their bright and elegant tasting room.

Stroll down magically illuminated Market Street, where Samuel Sweetsa candy emporium co-owned by actors Paul Rudd and Jeffrey Dean Morgan, offers an afternoon pick-me-up in the form of a peanut butter blonde cup, which pairs well with a matte white of bread alone on the other side of the road.

Once full of fuel, head to Wilderstein (“wild man’s stone,” a reference to an Indian petroglyph on the property), a 19th-century Queen Anne-style country house that sits high above the Hudson River. With a landscape design by Calvert Vaux and a history that included many visits from FD Roosevelt, this Victorian oasis features guided tours, speaker series, holiday programming, and children’s scavenger hunts.

For more holiday fun, the Wonderland of Lights drive-thru (Nov. 28-Dec. 29; check out schedule) at the Dutchess County Fairgrounds promises to dazzle.

After a day of activity, dinner at Le Petit Bistro It’s a well-deserved highlight. Craft cocktails, oysters and the perfect steak to power they all make a meal here memorable. Keep the dessert simple and opt for an ice cream cone (the mint brownie swirl is excellent) at Del Highwaya beloved institution since 1960.

If you’re looking for a quieter scene, the town of Tivoli, population 1,000, just at the end of Route 9G, is worth a visit. He Hotel Tivoli and his farm-to-table restaurant, The Corner, were founded by the late artist Brice Marden and his wife, Helen. It has 12 eclectic and vibrantly colored rooms and makes for a total weekend escape, and it’s an easy walk to the newcomers’ favorite area. GioBatta Alimentari. The pride of chef Francesco Buitoni (from that pasta family), the menu includes Italian classics: Caprese salads, steak ai ferry (grilled steak) with cannellini beans and tagliatelle bolognese, at reasonable prices.

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On the other side of the river

West of Rhinebeck, just over the Kingston-Rhinecliff Bridge, lies the small town of Kingston, a once sleepy place now home to a thriving arts and culinary scene. In one of the Kinsley HotelIn the 42 beautifully decorated rooms in the historic Stockade District, you’ll enjoy sumptuous surroundings (think velvet banquettes and Frette linens, but in a country style) and easy access to adventure. Hutton Bricks is another riverfront option, with floor-to-ceiling views from its minimalist pine and glass cabins.

From any of the hotels you can easily explore the Midtown Arts District and the Reher Center for Immigrant Culture and Historywhich is located in a historic bakery. There is also great shopping – locally handmade furniture and tableware with a contemporary sensibility in Black Creek Mercantile & Trading Cowhile hop petunia makes a more colorful homeware edit. For hemp jeans and moleskin work jackets, head to Clove and streamwhere you can find an entire weekend wardrobe in one room.

While the surrounding area isn’t known for its challenging ski terrain, there are plenty of gentler offerings – Hunter, Belleayre and Windham mountains are all less than an hour away and are ideal for beginners and snowboarders alike.

After long days spent outdoors (exploring, hiking, visiting galleries), comfort food is the way to go. For casual dining, both Ollie’s Slice Shop and Lola’s Pizzeria compete for the hearts of locals, while the Italian-inspired restaurant Elisa (from the team behind Ollie’s) serves fan favorites – small salads, homemade cavatelli and the perfect burger – in a wonderfully lively retro atmosphere complete with neon signs.

How to get there: Accessible by car via the scenic Taconic Parkway or by train (Metro-North from Grand Central Station to Wassaic or Amtrak from Penn Station to Rhinecliff, NY)

Do you have a favorite getaway to the Hudson Valley? Tell us in the comments below. AND follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter