Unlock Editor’s Digest for free
FT editor Roula Khalaf selects her favorite stories in this weekly newsletter.
This article is part of FT Globetrotter. Paris guide
At a busy intersection in Le Marais, not far from the Hôtel de Ville and the Pompidou, Le Grand Mazarin is, from the outside, the kind of classic Parisian hotel one might imagine with small, uncomfortable beds, tiny rooms and a nondescript restaurant. How wrong you would be.
This boutique hotel is owned by Patrick Pariente, whose iconic ’90s Naf Naf brand was emblazoned on every teenager’s sweater in Paris, and has recently been renovated by the designer. of the day Martin Brudnizki, whose footprint can be found from the Four Seasons Astir Palace in Athens to the Broadwick in Soho in London. With Maisons Pariente’s first hotel in the capital (adding to a portfolio of two properties in the south of France and one in Méribel), Brudnizki has taken what was probably once a standard small hotel and transformed it into a welcoming five star sanctuary. And it’s a maximalist hipster triumph.
With a luxurious Ladurée macaroon palette of pistachio, caramel, chocolate and lilac, and plenty of velvet upholstery and carved woodwork, the feel is part Wes Anderson, part Jewish grandmother; the latter is a nod to the Marais district on the hotel’s doorstep. Nowhere is this winning combination more evident than in the small lobby, with its washed silk walls, draped curtains, and gilt-framed oil landscape paintings. Here, guests can wait to check in or check out, sinking into plush upholstered chairs while bellhops Grand Budapest Hotel-Purple uniforms carry the luggage on a golden cart.
Restaurant and bar
The star attraction of Le Grand Mazarin is Boubalethe Ashkenazi-themed restaurant on the ground floor, presided over by famous Israeli chef Assaf Granit. Named a Yiddish term of endearment, Bouablé is the beating heart of the hotel which, with its ruffled lampshades and folk fabric wall coverings, feels homey, cozy and very un-Parisian. On our Friday night visit, the restaurant was packed and groups of friends and families gathered to enjoy a feast. And it’s a party.
The menu celebrates Eastern European classics, including Granit’s fragrant version of chopped liver, gravlax, pierogi and schnitzel, accompanied by delicate herb salads, tomatoes with pomegranate molasses and other tasty add-ons. In keeping with the Jewish grandmothers theme, the portions are served on tacky tableware and are appropriately generous. Make sure you leave room for a wonderfully creamy chocolate mousse with olive oil and sea salt. Then head through a heavy curtain to Le Bar de Boubalé for an after-dinner cocktail.
Accommodation
Our junior suite, situated in the eaves up a private flight of stairs, felt particularly comfortable with an upholstered canopy over the king-size bed and plenty of low lamps. The pink marble-clad bathroom had a walk-in shower. and a freestanding bathtub (a true rarity in Paris), not to mention double sinks: one of life’s great luxuries, even if only for one night. Meanwhile, a small balcony was the perfect nest to sit with a digestif and spy the lively Rue de la Verrerie. (Fortunately, once the patio doors were firmly closed, we couldn’t hear anything.)
pool and gym
Underground pools with hand-painted murals and fascinating mosaics are all the rage in Paris these days. The pool here is small and striped, lined with alternating blue and white tiles. Lie back (in the water, too warm, I thought) and admire a fun Cocteau-style mural by Jacques Merle. Even the 24-hour gym is stylish, featuring a range of sleek, wood-paneled fitness equipment, the type one might imagine Wes Anderson would have. chez lui.
the area
The location is ideal for the purchases (Rue de Rivoli and the BHV department store are a minute away) and to stroll through the artistic, falafel-scented streets of the Marais. Anywhere in the center of Paris is practically within walking distance, but you can reach the Center Pompidou in five minutes and the National Picasso Museum in Paris in 10.
At a glance
-
Rooms and suites: 50 rooms and 11 suites; Three of the suites can be joined together for a large family gathering.
-
Good for: Boubalé, the hotel’s upscale Ashkenazi restaurant; proximity to shops and cafes in the Marais
-
Not so good for: Those on a budget – this is a pleasant stay
-
For your information: Don’t miss breakfast, whatever you do. A central table (often featured on the hotel’s Instagram account) groans each morning with a tiered display of pastries, homemade apple pies, muffins, fruit salads and juices, while the chef’s counter is filled with cheeses, cold cuts and breads, and eggs can be arranged on the table
-
Rates: Doubles from €690, breakfast included (beginning of January)
-
ADDRESS: 17 Rue de la Verrerie, 75004 Paris
Rebecca Rose stayed as a guest of Le Grand Mazarin
Do you have a favorite hotel in Paris? Tell us in the comments below. AND follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter
Cities with the FT
FT Globetrotter, our insider guides to some of the world’s biggest cities, offers expert advice on food and drink, exercise, arts and culture, and much more.
Find us at Paris, Rome, London, Tokyo, New York, Frankfurt, Singapore, Hong Kong, Miami, toronto, Madrid, Melbourne, Copenhagen, Zurich, Milan, vancouver, Edinburgh and Venice