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Along with sunscreen and retinol, vitamin C should be an essential part of every skincare routine, year-round, regardless of skin type. It is a powerful antioxidant that provides multiple benefits, from photoprotection and antiaging to shine and antipigmentation.
First, it addresses hyperpigmentation by restricting the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme (which acts as a catalyst in melanin production), which inhibits melanin synthesis, lightens uneven pigmentation, and leads to a brighter complexion.
Skincare brands are also keen to tell us about vitamin C’s superhero abilities to combat free radical damage. Daily solar radiation, pollution and smoking can cause oxidative stress, and the skin can no longer protect itself when environmental free radicals outnumber antioxidants. Vitamin C, however, donates its electrons to free radical molecules, thus neutralizing oxidative stress, which helps delay accelerated skin aging and the development of skin cancer.
Vitamin C is best incorporated into skincare routines through concentrated serums, the post-toner, and pre-moisturizer step. Applied in the morning, a serum will act as a defensive shield against free radicals.
To be effective, the serum must contain between 8 and 20% vitamin C. Those below 8% will not give significant results. And studies show that serums above 20 percent can cause irritation; moreover, a higher concentration does not increase its effectiveness. I would suggest choosing one that is in the Goldilocks zone (not too low and not too high) 10-20 percent.
(Before I throw in some recommendations, it’s also worth noting that I’ve long been despairing of commercial marketing of vitamin C products in yellow or orange packaging. The irony is that vitamin C turns a rancid orange color once that it starts to rust, which means it’s losing its effectiveness and is on its way to bursting! This is useful to know because as its effectiveness decreases, you’ll need to use more to achieve the same results).
lixir skin Vitamin C paste, £35 for 50ml
it’s clinical Super serum, £155 for 30ml
For beginners, the light one. Multiple RoC correction® Revive + Shine The formula with 10% active vitamin C will smooth the skin gently for results. For experienced users, Tatcha Violet-C Brightening Serum It’s a colorless, fragrance-free formula with 20% Vitamin C and Japanese Berries (yes, that’s actually what it’s called) for antioxidant support, and 10% Fruit Acids to resurface without irritation. For ease of application, I would recommend mixing one part hyaluronic acid to one part vitamin C.
For sensitive skin, there is Lixirskin Vitamin C Paste. Instead of a serum, this 10% L-ascorbic acid formula is a morning wash-off paste mask designed to revive gray and green undertones. To play the long game, choose iS Clinical Super Serumwith its time-release technology of 15% vitamin C, bioidentical copper tripeptide growth factors and powerful botanical antioxidants.
Vitamin C is extremely versatile, but it has a problem: it is very prone to oxidation, which not only turns it an orange-brown color but also decreases its effectiveness. But several brands have tackled this problem smartly, such as The Nue Co Topical-C, which uses the most stable form of vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid, in powdered form and in an opaque bottle that’s a bit like a salt shaker. It doesn’t kick in until you spray the right dosage (2-3 shakes) into a serum or moisturizer.
wall Vita-C Glycolic Brightening Serum, £82 for 30ml
skinceuticals CE Ferulic Serum, £165 for 30ml
lancôme Rénergie HCF Triple Serum, £79.20 for 50ml
Institut Esthederm Photo Reverse High Protection, £57 for 50ml. spacenk.com
But it’s worth noting that you can’t mix vitamin C with everything, for example with various acids, which work best in environments with a very different pH level. (I recommend using vitamin C in the morning and separate acids or retinol products at night, as combining it with other actives can lead to irritation.) To combat this, Murad’s Vita-C Glycolic Brightening Serum has created a stabilized delivery system with separate chambers that pump the exact dose simultaneously, so there is no prior contact between ingredients. This ensures that the glycolic acid gently resurfaces dead skin cells to create the optimal environment for the deeper penetration of vitamin C.
However, vitamin C works well with other antioxidants such as ferulic acid and vitamin E. Anti-inflammatory and photoprotective ferulic acid is derived from plant cell walls. The combination with vitamin C works exceptionally well on areas of redness, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and brown spots associated with melasma. Try the cult favorite Skinceuticals CE Ferulic serum (for sun-damaged mature skin) and its later iterations Phloretin CF (for oily skin) and Silymarin CF (for acne-prone skin).
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Hyaluronic acid (HA) and vitamin C are also a good combination because the moisturizing (i.e., water-attracting) properties of HA can help offset the dryness that sometimes occurs with vitamin C. Lancôme Rénergie HCF Triple Serum uses HA to lighten its cocktail of vitamin C, niacinamide, and ferulic acid. Each pump dispenses the correct dose through triple chambers so they can be mixed in the palm of your hand. (It was once thought that niacinamide/vitamin B3 and vitamin C were invalid, but the truth is that they can be used together if it is a stable form of vitamin C.)
But the ultimate dynamic power couple is vitamin C and sunscreen: together they are more effective at neutralizing free radical damage and creating a protective shield against UV rays than sunscreen alone. According to one study, the use of sunscreen and 10% vitamin C results in a 52% reduction in redness and a 40-60% reduction in the development of sunburn cells. I would recommend a broad spectrum sunscreen product like Institut Esthederm Photo Reverse High Protection or a pre-mixed formula of vitamin C and SPF such as Ole Henriksen Banana Bright Mineral Sunscreen SPF30, which has a smooth, matte finish to correct uneven skin tone and prevent sun damage. Hopefully, now that you know that vitamin C and SPF are best when intertwined, you’ll never separate them again.
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