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Deep green has taken off. At Fendi and Ferragamo, the color appeared on leather coats, shift dresses and thigh-high boots. Bottega Veneta paired wrap coats in moss-green wool with matching trousers; Saint Laurent incorporated khaki tights into sheer dresses, pencil skirts and bow blouses; and Burberry models debuted duffle coats, bomber jackets and floor-length kilts in varying shades of moss green.
The colour, which was first adopted by British troops in Peshawar in 1846 after Lieutenant General Sir Harry Lumsden noticed that their red uniforms were being targeted by snipers in the arid countryside, remains associated with military uniforms and field clothes. Today, it is synonymous with President Zelenskyy, who ditched his political suits and donned an olive-green shirt shortly after Russia invaded Ukraine in an act of solidarity with Ukrainian soldiers.
Demand for timeless, functional pieces points to dark green’s broader appeal, according to Clare Smith, senior colour strategist at the trend forecasting agency. WGSN“We see designers opting for colours that offer consumers versatility, stability and durability,” Smith says. “They are also used to convey a sense of warmth and protection, again driven by consumer attitudes in uncertain times.”
The resurgence of color could also be seen as an evolution of the low-key luxury trend (the fashion term for the style of understated wealth that thrives primarily in black, white and beige) and our continued desire for practical basics. French designer Isabel Marantwhose unique boho-chic style puts a luxurious spin on the everyday, has presented loose-fitting jumpsuits, fringed coats and shearling blouson jackets in a mix of earthy browns and khakis, pairing them with leopard-print tights and snake-print leather trousers for extra statement-making. “I’ve always loved these shades,” he says, as they are “versatile colours that can easily be paired with anything.” Lorenzo Serafini, creative director of Philosophy of Lorenzo Serafiniagrees. Her autumn/winter 2024 collection, inspired by Hitchcock heroines, ran the gamut from elegant olive-speckled turtleneck dresses to fitted forest-green shirt dresses and sleek duchess coats. “I like the extreme versatility of it,” she says. “It’s timeless and off-season. It’s an elegant shade and easy to incorporate into a broader palette.”
As for how to wear the trend, consider a “well-tailored khaki pant or jacket as a base that can anchor any outfit,” she says. FreedomCreative stylist Hannah Edgar, though for a contemporary update, suggests pairing khaki pieces with sequins or fun prints. “This proves it can be a dynamic option for any wardrobe.”