A Journey with Tunisian Harissa
Delving into Tunisian Cuisine and the Significance of Harissa
Tunisian cuisine is renowned for its vibrant flavors and unique spice blends. Among the many treasures of this North African country, harissa stands out as a culinary gem. With its rich history and bold, fiery taste, harissa has become a staple in kitchens around the world.
The UNESCO Designation and its Relevance
One can argue that the UNESCO designation of Tunisian harissa as an intangible cultural heritage was a great victory. It not only recognizes the cultural and historical significance of this spicy condiment but also highlights its importance in preserving Tunisian culinary traditions. For the Arem brothers, however, their journey with harissa goes beyond competition or authenticity. It is about connecting the dots for consumers who crave the true taste of Tunisian harissa.
Authenticity and the Journey to Find the Perfect Harissa
Over the years, the Arem brothers have encountered various versions of harissa in their quest for authenticity. From sweet versions labeled “gravy” to dry spice mixes and soft pastes, none of them captured the true essence of Tunisian-style harissa. The brothers grew up savoring its bold dried chile flavor and vibrant Bordeaux red color. Their pursuit of perfection is not merely a commercial endeavor; it is a culinary diplomacy aimed at preserving and transmitting living knowledge.
The Art of Making Harissa
Mansour, one of the Arem brothers, emphasizes the importance of using harissa itself in any recipe. There is simply no substitute for this fiery paste. The most traditional chili used in Tunisian harissa is baklouti, a mild pepper named after the city of Bekalta. However, other varieties are also employed to add complexity to the flavor profile. The chiles are carefully harvested and left to dry in the sun, a crucial step that can take up to a month. Once dried, they are cleaned, seeded, and transformed into a paste by grinding them with salt and whole garlic cloves. The addition of extra virgin olive oil, coriander, caraway, and sometimes lemon juice or vinegar gives harissa its shine and preservation properties.
A Culinary Journey and Fond Memories
For Mansour, visiting Tunisia holds a deeper significance. On his recent trip, he reconnected with his roots and cherished memories of his grandmother, Béchira. A particular dish, a merguez beef stew with harissa, holds a special place in his heart. The vibrant red oil, pickled olives, and spicy meatballs evoke a sense of nostalgia, reminding him of cherished moments spent with family. Mansour’s journey with harissa encapsulates not only the flavors and techniques but also the personal stories and memories intertwined with Tunisian cuisine.
Summary
Tunisian harissa, recognized by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage, holds a special place in the hearts of the Arem brothers. Their pursuit of authentic Tunisian-style harissa goes beyond competition and commercial interests; it is about connecting consumers with the true taste of this fiery condiment. Harissa, made from carefully harvested and dried chiles, ground with garlic, salt, and spices, embodies the essence of Tunisian cuisine. It brings with it not only bold flavors but also a sense of culinary diplomacy, transmitting living knowledge from one generation to the next.
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That is why the UNESCO designation was a great victory. But for the brothers, it’s not a competition. It’s not about authenticity either. It’s about connecting the dots for consumers who want to cook with authentic Tunisian harissa.
Over the years, online and in stores, I’ve bought sweet versions in jars labeled “gravy,” dry spice mixes, and soft pastes that come in a tube. But none of these tasted like the thick Tunisian-style harissa that the Arem brothers grew up on, with its bold dried chile flavor and, in Mansour’s words, its “vibrant Bordeaux red” color. For them, it is more than a commercial enterprise: it is culinary diplomacy, the transmission of living knowledge.
When trying this recipe, you should know that you must use harissa. There is no substitute.
The most traditional chili used is baklouti, says Mansour, a mild pepper named after the city of Bekalta, “but other less popular varieties are also used.” Once harvested, the chiles are sometimes decorated with twine and left to dry in the sun, an essential process that can take up to a month, depending on the weather. Cleaned and seeded, they are soaked in water, drained and ground to form a paste with salt and whole garlic cloves. Extra virgin olive oil, coriander and caraway join the chiles, and sometimes also lemon juice or vinegar, to give it shine and preservation.
This year, Mansour visited Tunisia because his grandmother Béchira died. As he flipped through old photographs, he remembered the last meal she made him: a merguez beef stew with harissa (called markat merguez, tajine merguez, or markat kaaber, depending on who you ask). It was fine-tuned, the dish at its full potential: pickled olives and red peppers swimming in a pool of deep crimson olive oil, with heady, spicy meatballs floating like floats. Still, it retained all the ingredients of his mother’s version, filled with memories of her watching “The Real Housewives of Atlanta,” one of her favorite shows, in her pajamas while he and his brother played their Nintendo 64, all waiting for the stew. to finish simmering.
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