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your favorite off-the-beaten-path restaurants and bars in Venice

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This article is part of a guide to venice by FT Globetrotter

Torrefazione Cannaregio

A floral teapot and cup and saucer on a wooden counter next to a window overlooking a Venice street in Torrefazione Cannaregio
© Torrefazione Cannaregio

Torrefazione Cannaregio It is a roastery in the sestiere from Cannaregio who is more than 90 years old. Ideal for a morning stop, it is located next to the iron bridge that accesses the ghetto. They sell their own coffee blends, which they grind themselves. They also offer cakes and pies. There are tables and chairs inside and outside. Order a macchiatone (a Venetian cappuccino: more coffee, less foam) at the bar and then go out and sit at one of the canal-side tables. Observe boat traffic (beware of a dog that is a faithful pilot or a sandolo ship) and dirty clothes fluttering over the canals, and let the world pass by.

Thomas Coward, academic, Rome

Cantine del Vino già Schiavi

Shelves full of wine bottles at Cantine del Vino già Schiavi

If you’re looking for a quiet glass of wine by the canal while looking out over the old gondola shipyard, Squero di San Trovaso, try the small Cantine del Vino già Schiavi.

Vincent Malige, Group Compliance Director, Paris

Trattoria a la Madonna

A small oasis of Venetian authenticity, Trattoria a la Madonna It is hidden in a side street of the Grand Canal. Walking by in the morning, the kitchen doors are wide open, offering a view of the staff at work. Inside, this seafood trattoria is bursting with pressed linen life. It is the real Venice. Memorable. Delicious.

Laurence Croneen, MD, communications consultancy, London

Pasticceria Rosa Salva

The historic facade of Pasticceria Rosa Salva
© Editorial Design Pics/Universal Images Group via Getty Images

See what Venetian life is really like in one of the few remaining campi not completely destroyed by tourism. For generations (my grandparents spoke highly of it), Pasticceria Rosa Salva has been the perfect place to observe the comings and comings of the field: children leaving school playing soccer, elderly people doing their shopping, parents running to the office and the hospital (with its beautiful Renaissance façade) In short, life in all its cycles. Sit at an outdoor table and enjoy a good coffee and maybe later a spritz and tramezzini (triangular sandwiches) is something I recommend to everyone.

— Marco Boldini, asset management, London (born and raised in Venice)

Antica Locanda Montin

People dining at tables in the tree-shaded garden patio of Antica Locanda Montin

The patio garden Antica Locanda Montin It is a quiet and green place, ideal to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and enjoy a wonderful lunch. And on a sunny afternoon, eating takeout. cicchetti and a splash from one of the bars on the San Trovaso River (in front of the gondola shipyard) is also a delight.

– Anonymous

Bacán

Circular wooden tables next to the window in Bacàn in dark wood tones

There is a little place near the Rialto called Bacán serving Latin American food. Their tasting menu is simply glorious. The menu has certainly changed with the seasons, but in April they served the most delicate ceviche in grapefruit-infused brine; an absolutely brilliant lemon fish (not sure which) steamed and wrapped in cabbage leaves that tasted like the sea; oyster tacos; and my favorite, a banana puff pastry. The atmosphere and service were impeccable. I had just landed and had no reservation. I walked in, waited a few minutes, and got a spot at the communal table. It was hot and the decoration was composed of all the South American colors: ocher tones and soft lights. I returned twice during that week and hope to return when I return to Venice.

— Renuka, gallerist, New York

Chet’s Bar

He Chet’s Barover a bridge leading north from Campo Santa Margherita a square where students from the local university outnumber the tourists who venture into Dorsodouro It’s a gem. In the early afternoon, the bar offers a calm and quiet environment from which to people watch; As night falls it becomes a center of revelers perched on the pavement and devourers who leave the square as it closes. The best chance to become a young local in Venice is Chet Bar.

— Jack Winfield, solicitor, London

Gelateria Nico

Metal and rattan chairs next to round white marble tables on the terrace of Gelateria Nico, under a blue and white striped canopy.

unique In Zattere you will find the best ice cream parlor you will find on the island. A local recommended it to me back in 2017 and without a doubt it is always my favorite place. As it is hidden and on the side of the island furthest from the most touristy places, it is usually only full of locals. go for a gianduiottoserved with whipped cream. A nice hidden gem (for now) to cool off in the heat and practice your Italian language skills!

—Sienna Nordquist, PhD student, Milan

Focacce Molin Panel

For a life-changing cookie, venture to Focacce Molin Panel on Salizada San Francisco. Without any sign, it is identifiable only by some strange rat-tail-shaped cables hanging above the door. This clandestine bakery houses the most “oh baby” almond ricciarelli cookies throughout Italy. But it’s complicated: you must arrive before 12:45 and place an order for biscotti alle mandorle. A lovely lady at the desk will tell you exactly when to return the next day. Bring cash and feast. In my life I have tasted the best cookies available to humanity.

—Louis Elton, anthropological consultant, London

Pasticceria Tonolo

A pile of frittelle (Venetian fritters) on a tray at Pasticceria Tonolo
Frittelle at Pasticceria Tonolo © GettyImages

Pasticceria Tonolo It is at a T-junction behind the Church of San Pantalon. (nb, it is closed on Mondays). Inside is a long, narrow room, the bar and cash register are at the end, and to the left is a counter generously filled with a variety of pastries and tarts overseen by women in pink coats. Customers (i.e. Venetians) drink and eat at the bar: there is no seating. Tea and coffee are served in blue and white porcelain cups and saucers. Among the pastries, try one bigne either meringueor one of their small pistachio delights. If you would like to take some cakes with you, the ladies will carefully package them for you. during the carnival, order the frittellethen go to other cafes and compare (and then come back!).

—Thomas Coward, academic, Rome

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