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A poet guide for New Orleans, by Cleo Wade


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One of my first memories is to stand in front of a row of Porta Porta in the New Orleans Jazz Fest. I was seven or eight years old, and I remember having 20 canned coolers around my neck because all adults were urinating. I have been going to Jazz Fest since I was in the uterus; It is almost a spiritual pilgrimage. The festival is not for everyone: it is hot as fucking, as, so hot. But it is the best music in the world.

I lived in New Orleans until age 17, then I moved to New York, then. I return all the time, for Mardi Gras, for Jazz Fest, for the New Orleans book festival. I will often stay at the Peter and Paul hotel in a neighborhood that I love, called Marigny. From there, we travel on our bicycles to the festival, but you can also travel to Parkway Bakery & Tavern, a famous Po’Boy place near the swamp. Having a bicycle is the best way to move, although I would never travel here at night. All are drunk … not necessarily me, but probably me, and definitely everyone else.

Wade receives Foster bananas at the Brennan's restaurant
Wade receives Foster bananas at the Brennan’s restaurant © Daymon Gardner
The entrance of the Peter and Paul hotel; The buildings were once a Catholic Church, School and Convent
The entrance of the Peter and Paul hotel; The buildings were once a Catholic Church, School and Convent © Daymon Gardner

Jazz Fest extends for two weekends at the end of April and early May, and is celebrated in the Fair Grounds career course. During the festival, I have no self -control, something happens, I am possessed. There is a blues tent, a jazz tent and a gospel tent, among others. We spend most of our day in the stage of Congo Square, where many of the black artists – Erykah Badu, Ludacris, Earth, Wind & Fire – Play. The main stage is usually where pop and rock acts occur, last year were the Rolling Stones, and I have also seen the Dave Matthews band there; They are playing again this year.

Wade with friends at the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival held in April and May
Wade with friends at the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival held in April and May

There is zero culture of hustle or routine in New Orleans, and without that, the city has its own identity outside the intense capitalist rhythm of the United States. It was built to enjoy the day. You will not want to go anywhere too fast because there is music in the streets and, as you are moving it, you may see a balcony with a beautiful iron and flowers design hanging on it. That type of sensory elements require you to reduce speed and enjoy it.

The Royal Chamber in Brennan's
The Royal Chamber in Brennan’s © Daymon Gardner

We are especially known for a gastronomic experience that is not Fussy; You will not have a foam that comes to the table here. But whether you are having a beautiful seafood dinner in mosquito supper club or oysters in Pêche, it is a really creative experience. The city makes an incredible French food: go to the Crêpe Nanou or Café Degas, our land during Jazz Fest. Then there are all traditional Creole restaurants such as Brennan’s, Dooky Chase’s and Brigtsen’s. New Orleans is one of the only places in the United States that has things that are truly indigenous. Hot dogs and pizzas are Eurocentric things that were brought, but if you have gumbo, that comes from the United States. And when you hear jazz or blues, those are forms of indigenous music that were born in New Orleans.

Wade in the Faubourg Marigny district
Wade in the Faubourg Marigny district © Daymon Gardner
The exterior of the Peter and Paul hotel
The exterior of the Peter and Paul hotel © Daymon Gardner

The tram runs through most of the city: it can leave in the district of Los Gardes to look around, or Saint Charles Avenue to walk along Magazine Street. There you will find beautiful design and vintage stores such as Shop Lekha and Blue Dream. Everything seems great and cheap, a little youthful and more modern than the French neighborhood. You can find a class of pilates. If you are in New Orleans for more than four days, you will probably want to find a green juice or a vegetable or something, so it is good to know where the young people are.

Wade:
Wade: “New Orleans sensory elements require you to reduce speed and enjoy it” © Daymon Gardner

There is so much charm for New Orleans. It has some of the most beautiful trees and landscapes, and all these picturesque neighborhoods and influences from the Caribbean. Then there are the old houses that have become small restaurants or dance clubs: Juke Joint, Old Shack Kind of. There is a page in my last book, That you love and loveThat says: “That you feel the deep rhythm in your soul. The lyrics of the song of May make you laugh and cry. That there are nights that you stay out too late because the music was too good to go home early. “That is my New Orleans page.

What are you loved and loved: wishes for your life of Cleo Wade is published by Feiwel and friends at $ 18.99

Bars, coffees and restaurants

Brennan’s Brennansneworleans.com

Brigtsen’s Brigtsens.com

Café Degas Cafedegas.com

Dooky Chase’s dookychaserestaurants.com

The crepe nanou Lacrepenanou.com

Mosquito Club mosquitosupperclub.com

Parkway Bakery & Tavern Parkwaypoorboy.com

Pêche Pecherestaurant.com


SHOPPING

Blue dream Bluedreamneworleans.com

Buy Lekha Shoplekha.com


CULTURE

New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival from April 24 to May 4, nojazzfest.com


Where to stay

Hotel Peter and Paul Ashorld