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FT editor Roula Khalaf selects her favorite stories in this weekly newsletter.
When I moved to Naples, I felt like I had abandoned Italy completely. I was born in a small town near the Swiss border in the north; My parents moved here for work when I was eight years old. The two parts of the country couldn’t be more different.
One of the first things that caught my attention was the naturalness with which people interact on the streets. In many places, that may seem strange or intrusive; Naples is full of a unique warmth and friendliness in its people. I like to think of it as a form of street theater. Growing up here is what ultimately led me to a career in acting.
I started taking theater classes in an old church that I found on the way to school on Via dei Tribunali, one of the three ancient arteries of the city, known as decumani. I later had the opportunity to teach classes myself at the Teatro Bellini, a grand 19th century theater with a majestic interior; Definitely worth a visit.
Bellini Theater It is located in the neighborhood where I grew up, San Lorenzo, and is also home to one of my favorite contemporary art museums, Mother Museum. As a child, I spent a lot of time in its permanent exhibition, which includes dark brother (2005) by Anish Kapoor, a black rectangular void located within a white-walled space. Other great museums and galleries exhibiting contemporary art here include the Hermann Nitsch Museum and the Thomas Dane Gallerywhich also has a space in London.
After my breakout role in Paolo Sorrentino’s 2021 film The hand of GodI moved to Rome since most auditions are held there. I travel often for work: earlier this year I filmed The American Backyarddirected by Pupi Avati, which was set partly in Iowa.
I return to Naples as often as I can, at least once every two months. I like going out in San Lorenzo. There is a place called Buco Pertuso which serves excellent wines. Nearby, the same owner runs Bucolic Forno Popa place where you can get pizza by the slice. They have developed a special fermentation technique that makes the dough crispy and light; My favorite is the one with the octopus on it.
In the evenings, when I’m in the mood for a formal meal, I head to Osteria della Mattonella. If they are in season, I order friarielli, slightly bitter vegetables sautéed with garlic and olive oil. At Christmas my family cooks them with chorizo; We will have struffoli (fried honey balls) for dessert. For those who visit the city at this time of year, a walk along Via San Gregorio Armeno is a must. You will find hundreds of artisans selling handmade figurines for nativity scenes. The atmosphere is very Christmassy.
Among my favorite things about Naples are the beautiful, often unexpected, courtyards. You walk through old narrow streets, go through a small door and suddenly find yourself in a large open space that you would never have imagined. There is the Chiostro del Platano, a 15th century courtyard with an imposing plane tree in the center, or the impressive Marigliano Palacean excellent example of architecture from the Renaissance era. I love spending time there.
The Marigliano Palace holds a particularly special place in my memory, partly because Artigian Legatoryan old bookbinding shop there. Gennaro, a family friend who works at the store, lent me his Vespa when I was auditioning for The hand of God. I had read that my character, Fabietto, tours Naples on one and, since I had never ridden a Vespa before, I asked to borrow his. That role changed my life and Gennaro’s Vespa definitely played a big role.
Being away from Naples has given me perspective on how much the city has changed. When I first moved here, people were like, “Oh wow, good luck.” But there has been a real effort to make the city more welcoming and it is no longer as dangerous as it used to be. I think winning Serie A [Italy’s top football division] in 2023 also helped bring people together and strengthen a sense of shared identity. Football is everything here.
When I want to really feel the city, I go up the Salita del Petraio. This staircase of more than 500 steps will take you through different neighborhoods. I also recently visited Monte Echia, where a lift takes you up to the impressive Belvedere di Pizzofalcone. From the top you can see the peninsula we know in Naples as Castel dell’Ovo, where the Greeks first arrived more than 2,500 years ago and founded the city. The landscape from up there is impressive. It’s a sight I’ll never get tired of.