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Statement gold jewelry demands your attention. Oversized link bracelets, neck chains and doorknob earrings are re-emerging as revamped classics, perhaps as a palate cleanser to the colorful gemstone craze, or perhaps as part of a long-standing trend of buying gold in uncertain times.
Modern offerings come from LuganoThe luxurious heavy link necklace Cassandra GoadThe amorphous and rhythmic chains or the golden orbs of Solar bracelet by Solange Azagury-PartridgeIn the new Cartier Free polymorph Collection, pure abstract forms are expressed in gold, the new collection from Bucherer. Collection of links throws gold in clean, clip-style loops, while Prada’s eternal gold The jewels play with the brand’s signature triangle, along with classic heart and snake motifs, all accented with lab-created diamonds.
Last year, London-based Annoushka launched its first handmade solid gold collection, Knucklewhich was designed to fill a gap in creative director Annoushka Ducas’ own jewelry wardrobe. “I wanted a beautiful, simple gold chain, no frills, quite classic, statement-making, heavy, that could be layered and that could accept our pendants or charms.” She worked with artisans in Arezzo, Italy, whose handmade chains are made with clasps at each end so they can be worn separately, linked into a long necklace, wrapped around the wrist or made into a bow. “I love the versatility of a gold chain, and so do our customers.”
It was an Italian, the Sicilian aristocrat Fulco di Verdura, who helped bring sunshine yellow gold back into fashion after the platinum and diamonds of the 1930s, when he opened his private salon in New York in 1939. He became the favourite jeweller of the social and fashion elite, with his classic flat-link chain bracelet that epitomised Park Avenue style. Greta Garbo first wore it in 1941 in publicity photos for her film Two-faced womanand then so frequently that it became his signature style. The Garbo curb chain The design evolved into a necklace and clip-on earrings, and pairs well with other Verdura classics, such as the gold caged pearl earrings that were a favourite of Diana, Princess of Wales. Verdura also worked gold into nautical-inspired twisted link chains, in a style that defined 1950s and 1960s jewellery.
The enormous jewels of burnished and hand-hammered gold of David WebbAnother legendary American jeweller from the 1960s, Webb drew inspiration from antique objects and was much loved by Jackie Kennedy Onassis, Elizabeth Taylor and other names in high society and Hollywood. Webb’s wide cuffs, long, heavy sautoirs, monumental cocktail rings and door-knocker earrings were opulent yet effortless – jewellery to be worn day or night. Today, the company is recreating Webb’s designs for a new audience.
The handmade Italian chains from the Milan-based jewelry brand GrapefruitFounded by Pino Rabolini in 1967, they were also designed to capture the spirit and freedom of the 1960s. Creative director Vincenzo Castaldo calls the Catene chain, still handcrafted by the house’s specialized artisans, “the calligraphy of Pomellato.” The house has also reinvented its original chain creations through the Iconica bracelet and multi-layered draped necklace, along with earrings, rings and chain-link bracelets.
Adapted from an archival 1971 design, Tiffany’s HardWear collection plays with mechanical components, ball bearings and tubes, referencing the industrial core and rebellious pace of 1960s and 1970s New York. The golden neck chainWith its robust connectivity, it is quickly becoming a cult favorite and is perfect for matching or contrasting with A thick Peretti bone bracelet – an icon of 1970s design.
For designers-goldsmiths Hannah MartinGold represents a completely different kind of glamour. “The first time I touched gold, I fell in love with its magic and energy. It’s decadent and it’s what I want to wear.” Her hands are clad in her Delirium Arc and Orbit rings, her wrists cuffed with her Shackle bracelet. She describes her punk-inspired A New Act of Rebellion collection as “battle dress” – there’s certainly an element of danger in her heroic gold jewellery.
A range of all-gold jewellery can be mixed, layered and stacked to personalise the look. All you need is a pair of oversized Kennedy Onassis-style sunglasses to soften the shine of all that glorious gold.
Special thanks to Oscar Ancliffe and Andy Huq