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Wine and ice cream: two things that cause joy, although rarely simultaneously. But a The dreamerA new wine bar from another world and ice cream hall in the lush city of Beauvoir, north of London, join magically.
The size of the size of a pint is the work of Alex Young and George de Vos, also the creators of Goodbye horsesA bar and a restaurant with natural wines of coexistence on the same street that demonstrated one of the underground successes of 2024. Almost at the same time, the couple also launched ExcursionAn artisanal cafeteria in the same building. “Both George and I see creating hospitality and creation of worlds in themselves,” says Young, who used to work in technology. “We wanted to create a small town, an ecosystem that has a feeling of escapism.”
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Ice cream and wine can be a difficult combination from a purely technical point of view, since the sweetness of the first can cause the last flat. But any nuance lost in the pairing is overcome by the spirit of fun that it creates. “Our pairing approach is quite anarchic,” admits Young.
There is a feeling of improvisation throughout the company, but there are some significant names behind the scene. Goodbye Horses was designed by the Swiss architect Leopold Banchini, who also has a permanent installation at the Pompidou Center. The patio garden on the one -day excursion was created by garden designer Jihae Hwang, who has won several gold medals at Chelsea Flower Show. Head of wine at Goodbye Horses is Nathalie Nelles, formerly of noble Fine Liquor. The own of Vos was previously GM of Brilliant Corners, a place of music and a Japanese restaurant in Dalston.
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The dream is located in an ex-group store. There is no sign outside, only a window of three vaporized panels full of animated silhouettes against a colorful light washing. The main door looks like any other on Victoriana Street on terraces; But then you notice the plague, which is painted, slightly spooky, with suns, moons and birds in the form of a rune. Inside, it has the bones of an espresso coffee bar: there are stainless steel and reflected walls. But the eye is attracted to the roof, where a dazzling retroiluminated mural of the artist Lucy Stein fills the color space. In the corner, a style boombox of the eighties plays capricious Ghibli study Montones
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The farewell horses chef Jack Coggins does all the ice cream, which are attributed in a marking pen on the wall: in my visit they included figs of figs, pruning tea and oolong, bread of ginger and pear and sorbet verjus (£ 4 by tablespoon). There is no list of printed beverages, which will irritate some, but there is a small regular selection of easy drinking wines, “glu-glou”: sparkling pink moscato; Crunchy, Red-Berry Beaujolais served fresh; Alsacian Riesling and one or two dessert wines (from £ 7.50 per vessel). The emphasis is on natural and low intervention producers.
I pressed at the bar and ask for a post-prison tablespoon of coffee and caramel, and a glass of Passito Moscato Cerutti Cascinathat is caramelized and nut; My friend has the fig tree ice cream and a risk glass with lichi aroma. Both wines have a certain degree of natural sweetness and, therefore, the final result is really lovely.
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The ice cream comes in a cup of steel ice cream with stem, as can be seen in a cartoon. Wine glasses are printed with a growing moon eating a Stein ice cream cone. His folkloric illustrations are also a centerpiece of the most naturalistic farewell horses on the other side of the street; They run the full length of the 10 my bar, they make their way through the curtains of the gauze. “There is a kind of child quality in Lucy’s work,” says Young, “as if you were seeing things with fresh eyes.”
An influence for the dreamer was the bar of Paris FileA Fashion Glacerie-à-Evit in the 11th District. Young also bows its hat to Glouglou in Amsterdam, “which has a large selection of glass and is fun and easy in a way that is often not the wine bars.” “The true governing principle of all our bars is that we only want people to spend a really pleasant moment,” he says. “And I don’t think there is anything more fun and cheerful than eating ice cream and drinking wine.”