Skip to content

My Rome, by the director of Galleria Borghese, Francesca Cappelletti

Unlock the editor’s summary for free

This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide scent

Rome is my city. I was born here, I studied here and I worked here during most of my life. And yet, I am still amazed by all the discoveries I do every day. As art historian, spend most of my days between the collections of the Galleria BorgheseI am attracted to the details and places that transport me to the Rome of Caravaggio, Bernini and all the great creators who left their mark in the city.

Walking through the busy halls and colorful positions of FIORI FIELDThe oldest outdoor market in Rome, I can’t help thinking about the “child with a fruit basket” by Caravaggio. I love buying fruits and flowers here. When you lift your eyes, you can also see the statue of the 16th -century philosopher Giordano Bruno overlooking the cheerful chaos. This little walk generally sharpens my appetite and I rarely lose the opportunity to stop NoA bakery in the square that is famous for doing the best Bianca Pizza In the world.

A flower post in the field of 'Fiori
A flower post in the field of ‘Fiori © Olimpia Piccolo

Perhaps less known is the long and rich tradition of Rome to produce hand carved chairs. One of the most famous workshops in the city was Lucia Landucci, who worked in several princely commissions at the end of the 18th century, including the renewal of the Borghese Galleria. She created what is widely considered the most beautiful chair of Italian neoclassicism. For exquisite craft lovers, I recommend a detour to Via dei SediariJust behind the Palazzo Della Sapienza, the heart that was once historical of the carving and wicker design workshops in Rome.

Near, along Sant’eustachio, I usually amaten the goldsmith and jeweler windows Diego Percossi Papiwhose creations combine the traditional art of enamel and stones carved with innovative techniques and modern designs.

The church of Sant'ivo Alla Sapienza, with her sinuous spine
‘A masterpiece of Roman baroque architecture’: the church of Sant’ivo Alla Sapienza © Alamy Stock Photo

Another well -kept secret in the area is the 17th -century church of Sant’ivoin the courtyard of the Palazzo Della Sapienza. It is a masterpiece of the Roman baroque architecture of Francesco Boromini; The sinuous rope that resembles a spiral staircase is a blow of genius. When my friends or colleagues visit Rome, I bring them here, followed by a mandatory stop in the Fontana delle Tartarughe With its wonderfully sculpted turtles, one of the most beloved in Rome sources.

Fontana Delle Tartarughe: Two male statues that extend towards stone turtles that rest on the edge of a source basin, with an orange residential building in the background
Fontana Delle Tartarughe in Piazza Mattei © Olimpia Piccolo

One thing that has not changed in Rome since ancient times is how bustling it is. Poet Horace enjoyed the rare moments in which he did not meet anyone in the forum: “Ibam Forte through Sacra, Sicut Meus est. . . “(“By chance of me I was on the sacred path, as is my custom “). My favorite escape is Antica Libreria CascianelliAn antique library full of treasures (probably one of the last) located near the church of Santa María Dell’anima. I am looking for poetry of Horace and Ovid, or a good book about the baroque era. They have an incredible selection and also sell old prints, drawings, OBJETS D’Art And, I suspect, I love potions.

Antiquarian books in cabinets and vintage prints on the walls and dotted with the room of the Antica Liberia Cascialli
Antica Liberia Cascianelli

Around the corner, beyond Piazza Delle Cinque Lune – By definition, a magical place – usually I stop at Cinque Lune PasticceriaA small bakery where you can enjoy newly baked Roman specialties, including a delicious local version of Sachertorte.

If I need even more peace and tranquility, I’m going to Through Di Monserrato and visit design, vintage and artisanal furniture stores. Normally I pass The Jolie Fille. Despite its name, it is a truly Italian boutique that sells beautiful handmade dresses and long skirts. Then I crossed the Tiber to visit the Basilica di Santa Cecilia In Trastevere. It is one of the most romantic places in the city, where the noise of the neighborhood seems very distant. Besides, not far in Through Della LungaraIt is the Farnesina VillaProbably my favorite place in Rome. The Villa del Renaissance was built for the banker and the art pattern Agostino Chigi and is full of frescoes. You cannot lose Raphael’s tribute to Cupid and psyche. It tells an impossible love story, but in the end, as is so often in Rome, everyone is happy, even the gods.

What are your most prominent aspects in Rome? Tell us in the comments below. AND Follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram in @Ftglobetter

Cities with the FT

FT Globetrotter, our internal guides to some of the best cities in the world, offers expert advice on eating and drinking, exercising, art and culture, and much more

Find us in Rome, Paris, London, Tokyo, New York, Frankfurt, Singapore, Hong Kong, Miami, Toronto, Madrid, Melbourne, Copenhagen, Zürich, Milan, Vancouver, Edinburgh and Venice